Before I even finished eating breakfast at a window table at Peter's Inn, I realized the first line about Packwood in the Moon Handbook is false.

"There isn't a lot to Packwood," the guidebook states, "just a stretch of businesses scattered along the highway."

Not from my seat. From there, behind a heaping plate of ham and eggs, the possibilities seem endless. I looked up to see Tatoosh Ridge come to an abrupt end outside the window and Mount Rainier peeking over, as if to check in on this tiny logging town.

By the time the day was over, I had hiked 11 miles, stood at the feet of the oldest and biggest trees in Mount Rainier National Park, eaten lunch on the shore of a secluded lake, gotten fishing tips at the local sporting goods store and driven home on a scenic road thinking about things I wished I'd had time to do.

"Packwood reminds me of Moab (Utah) before it got so popular," said Rich Brooks, a 20-year Packwood resident. "There is so much to do here: fishing, hiking, mountain biking, climbing and the winter sports are phenomenal. And it's so spread out, so the area isn't overrun."

As you drive in on Highway 12, it's clear Packwood - 95 miles from Tacoma - could use an economic boost. Several businesses and the local ranger station are closed and the gas station doubles as the sheriff's deputies' office.

"I think we can get that boost from recreation," said Brooks, who works with the U.S. Forest Service and at White Pass Ski Resort.

Packwood Lake

This is the jewel of Packwood, but you'll need hiking boots or a horse to get there. It's a nine-mile round trip with a choice of two trails. The upper trail is more hilly, although neither route is technical. The lower trail is flat and follows an old logging road.

The upper trail makes for a better entrance to the lake. When you step from the forest the view suddenly unfurls before you with tiny Agnus Island floating on the lake and snow-capped Johnson Peak in the distance.

Fishing

The Packwood area is popular with freshwater anglers. Skate Creek, Dog Lake, Leech Lake, Cowlitz Falls Park and Clear Water Fork all offer fishing within an hour's drive of Packwood. Leech Lake is open only for fly fishing.

Backbone Lake

This is a steep but short hike favored by families and fishermen. The trailhead is just five miles east of Packwood, but you need a high-clearance vehicle to handle the choppy dirt road.

Rock climbing

A number of rock-climbing options rise near Packwood, including Big Horn, The Palisades and Tower Rock. These formations are for experienced rock climbers. Information: Randle Ranger Station, 360-497-1100.

Tatoosh Ridge

Perhaps the most challenging hike in the area is the climb to the top of Tatoosh Ridge. The ascent to 6,312 feet is steep, and locals suggest you allow yourself about two hours to make it to the top.

Ohanapecosh area

This southeast corner of Mount Rainier National Park is 11 miles from Packwood and is a popular day trip for the locals for its campgrounds and hikes.

The Grove of the Patriarchs is a one-mile hike through a small island of giant western red cedars and Douglas firs, some more than 25 feet in circumference. For a longer hike, Silver Falls Trail is an easy three-mile stroll past hot springs and the waterfalls. These hikes can be combined.

The Ohanapecosh campground, with 205 sites tucked into old-growth forest, is the largest campground in the park. Information: 360-569-2211.

Mount St. Helens

If you decide to extend your loop, it's less than a 90-minute drive to the volcano from Packwood. Information: 360-449-7800.

Layser Cave

This cave, 30 miles southwest of town, was discovered by a forest service worker in 1982. It was a shelter for prehistoric people for more than 7,000 years. Along the quarter-mile hike to the cave are signs explaining its history. Information: FS.fed.us/GPNF/.

ATV trails

The Blue Lake Trail System in the Cispus Basin offers more than 100 miles of hiking and biking trails, but it is most popular for its ATV trails. Jump-off Trail and Valley Trail offer more than 18 miles of ATV access. Information: 360-891-5000.

Wild on Packwood

There are hundreds of miles of trails and dozens of areas to fish, swim and view wildlife in nearby wilderness areas: Douglas, Goat Rocks, Glacier Views and Tatoosh.

Jug Lake

Getting there requires covering a steep 3.5-mile trail, but it's worth it for the sound effects. Supposedly, on windy days when the gusts cross the lake it makes a sound similar to blowing across the mouth of a jug.

Skate Creek Road

When it's time to go home, the 23-mile road from Packwood to Ashford is one of the most scenic stretches in the state. In case you need to pack one more adventure into your trip, you'll find several trailheads and campgrounds along the way. Information: 360-494-2223.


(Published June 3, 2004)