11 herbs: Flavor agents you can grow and cook with in the South Sound

Citrus, spice, licorice, sweet, sour, pungent. Culinary herbs encompass those and other flavors for which words just don’t exist. The best part about culinary herbs? They taste best fresh and most can be grown in your backyard. Or front yard.

Herbs come in a variety of categories. Some are strictly ornamental, others are used for medicinal purposes, and in personal ads “herb friendly” is code for “I smoke marijuana.” The fresh culinary group contains about a dozen commonly sold varieties but actually reaches over 100 that can be purchased as seed and grown in the Pacific Northwest.

Think of culinary herbs as plants that are not eaten themselves (like spinach) but instead are used as a flavoring agents in other dishes and preparations.

IN THE GARDEN

Herbs fall mostly into two categories: annual and perennial. Annuals, such as basil, only live during the growing season and need to be sown or purchased live each spring or summer. Perennials, such as thyme and lemon balm, will faithfully return each spring (provided there are no killer winters). Some, such as rosemary and sage, are actually shrubs. The California bay laurel is a tree.

At Tacoma’s Metropolitan Market last week a 4 ounce bunch of fresh basil was $3.99 and a bunch of dill was selling for $2.69. Store-bought fresh herbs are great options if you’re unfamiliar with an herb or don’t expect to use it again. But the most economical way to use fresh herbs is to grow your own. It’s also convenient and assures you of the herb’s organic status. And they just look good.

“They’re beautiful plants in the landscape,” says Ann Vandeman, executive director of Olympia’s Left Foot Organics. The nonprofit program grows a variety of herbs and sells starts at the Proctor and Tumwater farmers markets.

Left Foot’s 4-inch pots of herbs sell for $3.50-$4 and range from annuals such as basil to perennials such as sage to biennials like parsley.

Vandeman says that while each herb is unique, almost all of them are easy to grow. Left Foot’s perennial bed, filled with oregano, sage, thyme and lavender, just needs occasional weeding and mulching. The best part of their maintenance? “We never water them,” she says.

Other herbs, particularly annuals, have different growth habits. Dill and cilantro first produce leaves and then flowers followed by seeds. Cilantro seeds are sold in stores as the spice coriander. Cutting off the flowers in an effort to produce more leaves won’t work. “That’s not going to have any effect ... You can’t stop it. That’s nature,” Vandeman said. By planting from seed every two weeks cooks can be assured of a steady supply of cilantro and dill, she said.

IN THE KITCHEN

While some herbs like oregano and bay leaves are best used dried almost all others are more vibrant in their fresh state compared to their pale and desiccated versions. Basil, for example, is a burst of flavor redolent of pesto when fresh. Dried, it has all the appeal of dead lettuce.

“It’s just a different taste. The level of the pure essence of the plant is so much more defined in the fresh plant,” says Lisa Owen, chef-owner of The Mark in Olympia. Though she uses only fresh in her cooking she adds that some dried herbs can be more potent in their concentrated forms.

Primo Grill chef-owner Charlie McManus is not only a big user of fresh herbs he grows them in his Tacoma garden. Mint and tarragon are his favorites. “I find that they are both delicate herbs which give their best flavor when warmed rather than being cooked,” he said.

McManus calls mint, “one of the most underused herbs for culinary purposes. It will give tomato sauce a really bright flavor or is wonderful sprinkled on grilled shrimp or scallops with a little lemon and olive oil.” Mint, as many gardeners know, can quickly spread out of control so he grows three varieties in pots.

“Tarragon’s lovely licorice flavor is a great match for mild seafood such as scallops or halibut but it is also great with grilled chicken.”

At The Mark, Owen uses sage and other varieties of fresh herbs in her food. A favorite is rosemary – yards of the herb grow in containers around the restaurant and the culinary version makes its way into stuffed chickens.

Also bullish on sage is Olympia’s Basilico Ristorante Italiano chef and owner Arlindo Moraes. He uses it in what he calls one of the most classic pasta dishes in Italy: Pasta Burro e Salvia (Pasta with butter, sage and Parmesan cheese). Moraes says that gnocchi, ravioli, agnolotti and tortelli can all be made “that same simple and delicious way ... Any long or short fresh or dry pasta will be a perfection once tossed with those three ingredients.”

Pan Seared Alaskan Weathervane Scallops With Roasted Vegetables and Citrus Beurre Blanc

For the beurre blanc:

1 small carrot, roughly chopped

1 rib celery, roughly chopped

1 small onion, roughly chopped

2 bay leaves

12 teaspoon black peppercorns

12 orange, cut in wedges

12 lemon, cut in wedges

14 cup apple cider vinegar

2 cups white wine

10 ounces cold unsalted butter, cut in cubes

For the roasted vegetables:

1 yellow squash cut into 1/3-inch rounds

1 zucchini cut into 1/3-inch rounds

1 cup crimini mushrooms, cut in half

2 roma tomatoes cut in quarters

4 1/3-inch rounds of eggplant cut in half

14 teaspoon fresh thyme

14 teaspoon minced garlic

3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

Salt and pepper

For the pan seared scallops:

2 pounds large Alaskan weathervane scallops

Extra virgin olive oil

Unsalted butter

Salt and pepper

Fresh tarragon leaves

For the sauce: In a saucepan combine all the ingredients except the butter, and bring to a boil. Lower heat to medium and continue to cook until the wine mixture is reduced to a scant 14 cup. Over medium heat quickly add the butter a bit at a time whisking to emulsify. As the butter is incorporated remove the pan from the heat. Strain the sauce through a fine sieve pressing on the fruit and vegetables to extract any liquids. Keep the sauce warm in a bain marie (water bath) over low heat. Serves four.

For the vegetables: At Primo Grill, McManus roasts these vegetables in a 680-degree wood oven. At home he suggests heating the oven to 550 degrees. Toss all the ingredients in a bowl to combine and arrange on a baking sheet. Cook the vegetables until they are caramelized and slightly wilted, about 8 to 12 minutes.

For the scallops: Remove the scallops from the fridge about 10 minutes before cooking so they are closer to room temperature and will cook quicker. Pat the scallops with paper towels to remove excess moisture before cooking. This will help avoid flame-ups in the hot oil. If the oil smokes heavily when the scallops are cooking remove from heat to allow the pan to cool a little. Heat two saute pans over high heat. (For four portions it is advisable to use two pans to avoid crowding and heat loss.) Add enough olive oil to coat the bottom each pan.

As the oil begins to reach smoking point add a 12 teaspoon of butter to each pan. Season the scallops and add them one at a time.* Sear the scallops on top until they are golden. Turn and sear the bottom side. Cook the scallops no more than 4 minutes, or until they are warm center but still opaque.

Plating the scallops: On warm serving plates center a portion of roasted vegetables. Sprinkle tarragon leaves around the outside of the plates. Place the scallops around the vegetables. Top with the citrus beurre blanc and a little lemon zest.

Source: Charlie McManus

Brown Butter Sage Sauce

6-8 teaspoons butter

1 tablespoon fresh sage

Salt and pepper

Bring a saute pan to mild heat. Add butter and melt until brown. Add sage and season with salt and pepper. Cook for a few minutes.

Add your favorite pasta to the sauce and toss it together for another few minutes. At serving, add fresh grated Parmigiano-Reggiano.

Source: Arlindo Moraes, Basilico Ristorante Italiano, 507 Capitol Way South, Olympia, 360-570-8777 www.ristorantebasilico.com

Rosemary Chicken And Potatoes

One whole chicken

Half bunch of fresh rosemary

2 lemons cut in half

6-10 garlic cloves

Potatoes

Stuff chicken with lemon halves (squeeze while inserting), garlic and bruised rosemary. Bake until roasted (450 degrees for 1-1/2 to 1-3/4 hours). Part into breasts, legs, wings, etc. Finish on grill with light oil and salt.

Bake roughly cut potatoes until cooked but still firm. Saute with extra virgin olive oil, pinch of finely chopped garlic and salt.

Sprinkle chicken and potatoes with fresh rosemary just before serving.

Source: Lisa Owen, The Mark, 407 Columbia St. S.W., Olympia, 360-754-4414 www.themarkolympia.com/

Charred Tomato Vinaigrette

2 Roma tomatoes

1/4 teaspoon minced garlic

1 tablespoon lemon juice

2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint leaves

1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley

Pinch hot pepper flakes

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

Salt and pepper

Grill the tomatoes over high heat until they are charred and warmed through. Let cool. Coarsely chop the tomatoes, making sure to retain all the juices. Combine with the other ingredients to taste. Serves two.

Note: This vinaigrette is perfect for getting the best out of less than perfect tomatoes and is a wonderful pairing with grilled king salmon

Source: Charlie McManus, Primo Grill, 601 S. Pine St., Tacoma, 253-383-7000 www.primogrilltacoma.com

Tarragon Shallot Compound Butter

3 tablespoons chopped tarragon

1 shallot, peeled and minced

1/4 teaspoon minced garlic

2 tablespoons lemon juice

1/2 teaspoon lemon zest

1 tablespoon olive oil

Salt and pepper

8 ounces unsalted butter, room temperature, cut into cubes

Place the first 6 ingredients in a food processor and pulse to combine. Add the butter a piece at a time and process until the compound butter is a uniform light green color. Add salt and pepper to taste and process. The butter can be frozen in ice cube trays or rolled up in parchment paper or kept in the refrigerator for use. This butter is great on grilled chicken or grilled salmon. Place the butter on the chicken or salmon in the last minute of cooking.

Source: Charlie McManus

Stuffed Chicken With Sage Brown Butter Sauce

4 chicken breasts

8 ounces goat cheese

1 bunch fresh sage

Canola oil

12 cup whole butter

1 lemon, zested and juiced

Salt and pepper

Hazelnuts

For the chicken: Using a paring knife, make a small incision on the side of the thicker part of the breasts and slowly cut a pocket halfway through. Chop half of the sage and mix it with the goat cheese. Stuff the cheese mixture in the pocket. Pat dry the breasts with a towel and season with salt and pepper. Preheat frying pan with oil and place chicken skin side down to brown for approximately four minutes. Once brown, turn over and place in 350 degree oven until internal temperature of 165F. Let the chicken rest for a couple minutes then slice and plate. Spoon sauce over chicken. And garnish with fresh roasted hazelnuts.

For the sauce: Heat pan and add whole butter and let melt and brown. Don’t stir butter. Once the bubbles stop then the butter is browned. Add zest and juice of one lemon as well as the remainder of the sage and freshly cracked black pepper. Keep warm.

Source: Matt Stickle, Bite at Hotel Murano, 1320 Broadway Plaza, Tacoma, 253-238-8000, www.hotelmuranotacoma.com

Caper Mint Salsa Verde

4 tablespoons chopped fresh mint

1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley

1 tablespoon chopped fresh basil

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

1 teaspoon red wine vinegar

1 anchovy filet

1/2 teaspoon chopped garlic

1 1/2 teaspoons capers

1/2 cup olive oil.

Combine all the ingredients except the oil in a food processor and blend. Add the oil in a thin stream to thicken. Keep refrigerated. Serves six.

Note: Chef Charlie McManus usually serves this with Cheryl Ouelette’s slow roasted pulled pork and also goes well with grilled lamb chops.

Source: Charlie McManus