I've reviewed more than 40 South Sound drive-ins, shacks and bars known for their burgers. In addition to deserving hazard pay for my arteries, I like to think I know a good burger.
So when readers chime in raving about the burgers and fries at a chain restaurant - a chain restaurant, really? - I have to go eat there, especially because it's a chain new to the South Sound.
My verdict: Does Five Guys Burger and Fries crush the competition from a Pick Quick burger's pickle-relish punch, or the big, juicy patties at Mary's Burger Bistro or Lefty's Burger Shack?
Well, nope. Those home-grown burger restaurants still rank higher for my palate (see the accompanying box), but Five Guys' burger theory is in the right place. The chain touts hand-formed burgers and fresh-cut fries cooked in peanut oil.
The chain is getting local buzz and doing brisk business. The second South Sound location of Five Guys braved the snow last Friday to open in the Lakewood Towne Center. The fast-food style restaurant made its South Sound debut in Puyallup in November. Five Guys Burgers and Fries has popped up all over Washington state, mostly concentrated from Seattle to Renton to Issaquah. The chain was started in Virginia in 1986 by Jerry and Janie Murrell and their five sons. Here, it's franchised by Cameron Gentry and business partner Dustin Ward, who plan to open more stores.
For those unfamiliar with the Five Guys protocol, here's a primer:
The menu: Burgers, burgers and burgers. Four varieties in two sizes. Also, a few dogs, a few veggie sandwiches and grilled cheese.
The scene: Freebie peanuts in the entry, an open kitchen with the grill on view, order at the counter and find a seat. It's not cheap: a meal will run you $10 easy.
The protocol: Burgers come bare bones; pick from a list of 15 ingredients to customize. Toppings are free: mayo, relish, onions, lettuce, pickles, tomatoes, grilled onions, grilled mushrooms, ketchup, mustard, jalapeno peppers, green peppers, A.1. Steak Sauce, barbecue sauce and hot sauce.
Little Bacon Cheeseburger ($4.99): Little? Yeah, right. Not so little. The burger at the Puyallup location was juicy with just a bit of griddle char around the edges, which dried out the patty some. The top bun was grilled and crunchy, smeared with my requested mayo and relish; the bottom bun held ketchup and mustard. In between was a juicy, slightly thin patty with leaf lettuce, pickles, tomatoes (anemic! I hate tomatoes this time of year), grilled onions, chewy bacon and a gooey blanket of good ol' melted American cheese.
Bigger is not better: Having previously tried the two-patty bacon cheeseburger, don't pay extra for the big version. Two patties were too much burger for the bun and it dissolved into a sloppy mess.
Fries ($2.89): A small paper cup comes filled with thicker-cut, skins-on fries cooked in peanut oil. But look in the bag, and you'll find an annex order of fries, enough to fill the cup twice. If you're a fan of fresh-cut fries with a larger surface area, you'll appreciate them. The Cajun fries came with a nice hit of spice.
Fun note: They grill their hot dogs split open like Pick-Quick.
Peanut alert: Anyone who has peanut allergies should know that boxes of self-serve peanuts sit in the front entry and fries are cooked in peanut oil.
Atmosphere: While the components of the burgers were fine, the restaurant feels like a chain. There's something to be said for a local, established burger grill that oozes history.
With burgers, you must have beer
Construction is under way at a new 7 Seas Brewing location in downtown Gig Harbor. Mike Runion, co-owner of the brewery, said via email that the brewery has outgrown its location and the new 11,000-square-foot space inside the old QFC at 3006 Judson St. will allow the brewery to operate on a much larger scale. They plan to dedicate 8,600 square feet to brewing and the remainder of that space to a tap room. They expect to be brewing in the new location around March, with the tap room opening between June and October. The tap room at 3207 57th St. Court N.W. remains open as they shift to the new facility.
I had a big question for Runion: "Will 7 Seas' new tap room have food or a restaurant?" Neither for now, said Runion by email. "We won't have a kitchen in our new location, but we are hoping to work with a great local restaurant ... and those already there. Time will tell. We do currently, and plan to in the new location, allow food to be brought in."
Also in Gig Harbor restaurant news, Moctezuma's director of operations Bernie Garcia sent me an email saying construction is under way at a new site that formerly housed Harbor Monsoon at 4628 Point Fosdick Drive N.W. Look for a spring opening.
Sue Kidd dines anonymously and all meals are paid for by The News Tribune. Reach her at: 253-597-8270, sue.kidd@ thenewstribune, blog.thenews tribune.com/tntdiner
Photos by Sue Kidd/Staff writer
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