First-bite report: Tacoma's Smoke + Cedar

Staff writerApril 25, 2014 

A flame-torched prime-rib sandwich with house potato chips at the new Smoke + Cedar restaurant.

DEAN J. KOEPFLER — Staff photographer

The prime rib grabbed my attention and held it for several bites – until that awkward moment when I sensed my dining partner might forcibly reclaim the entree.

“Jus one merrr bite,” I might have murmured, mouth full of the juicy beef.

Supple and lightly charred from a finish with a blowtorch – yes, a blowtorch – the prime rib might as well be called “beef velvet” at Smoke + Cedar, the Tacoma restaurant from Gordon Naccarato that opened March 1 at the new Elks Lodge at Allenmore Golf Course (open to the public). It’s Tacoma’s newest view restaurant, with a lush course-side perch.

The slow-roasted prime rib is just one kitchen trick produced by the restaurant’s high-priced oven that can flip from oven to smoker with a few swipes of its computerized controls.

Besides turning out slow-cooked prime rib, that fancy oven-smoked olives for martinis and tomatoes for ketchup, a house-made condiment one local diner aptly coined “ketchup crack.”

Read more here:

The News Tribune is pleased to provide this opportunity to share information, experiences and observations about what's in the news. Some of the comments may be reprinted elsewhere in the site or in the newspaper. We encourage lively, open debate on the issues of the day, and ask that you refrain from profanity, hate speech, personal comments and remarks that are off point. Thank you for taking the time to offer your thoughts.

Commenting FAQs | Terms of Service