When the South Hill Greek restaurant changed its name from Mr Greek to My Greek six months ago, the change was so subtle – the flip of a single letter – some Puyallup residents didn’t even notice.

For owner Nader Morcos, the flip of that letter was significant. Morcos opened Mr Greek restaurant in South Hill in December 2007 as the first U.S. location for the Canadian-based chain of Mr Greek restaurants. In September 2008, he made a break from the franchise.

Morcos said Mr Greek was a learning experience, but he said the corporation imposed restrictions requiring what he could serve, how it would be prepared and how much to charge for it. Simply put, he wanted out of the franchise and the corporate owners were agreeable. My Greek, as he puts it, is “my restaurant now.”

The scene: A heavily designed space, My Greek’s interior is a handsome mix – if you are a fan of modern design. Horizontal stripes of pumpkin, beige and slate decorate one wall. Greek blue and buttery yellow add “opa” to the room.

People in the kitchen: Morcos guides the kitchen and directs the menu, but gets help from Christence Burns, who diners and staffers call “Yiayia.”

Dishes sampled: The appetizer dolmades ($6.99), were the most densely stuffed grape leaves I’ve ever eaten. They were something akin to little Greek meat loaves – solid missiles of ground beef, rice, mint, parsley and onion wrapped in grape leaves and served with a rich, buttery lemon sauce that was scoop-worthy for a basket of warmed whole-wheat pita.

The calamari ($8.99) comes grilled or fried. We opted for fried and wish we had gone with grilled because the fried calamari skewed chewy from too much time in the fryer. Santali shrimp ($8.99) had a mushy quality and a commercial-tasting tomato sauce.

For entrees, stick to the basics – gyros, souvlaki and moussaka. The classic gyros meal ($12.99) is lamb and beef, cooked rotisserie style, spiked with oregano and other spices, shaved thinly, and served as a big, meaty sandwich in a warm whole-wheat pita with sliced red onions, tomatoes and a drizzle of tzatziki yogurt sauce. It comes with two sides and a Greek salad.

On two visits, the Greek salad disappointed with wilted lettuce, and was overdressed with a flat vinaigrette. A substitution of a village salad for a $1.59 upcharge was offered on a third visit, and I bit. I was glad I did: The uncomplicated village salad yielded chunky tomatoes, crisp slices of green pepper, shards of red onions and hefty cubes of feta – drizzled with a grassy-tasting olive oil and dusted with oregano.

Sides were mixed. Roasted veggies were crunchy sautéed with chunky pieces of fresh-tasting squash, zucchini, broccoli and tomatoes. Green beans were unpalatably chewy on one visit. Greek potatoes were hearty, simmered potatoes with a tomato sauce that lacked zip. Buttery, fragrant rice drizzled with tomato sauce commanded my attention with a bright, lemony flavor. Greek seasoned potatoes were dry, fried potato discs that needed extra tzatziki for moisture. Greek French fries were golden fried, but arrived without promised feta.

The beef souvlaki shish kebab meal at lunch ($8.99) was the dish that would keep me coming back again. Savory strip loin fragrant with oregano came grilled perfectly medium, as requested, the tasty chunks of beef wrapped up in a warmed pita with tomatoes, red onions and tzatziki.

The lamb shish kebab meal at dinner ($13.99, with two sides and a salad) didn’t draw the same praise as the beef kebab. Chewy lamb pieces paired with a sour marinade drew low marks from the table. Lamb chops ($17.99, with Greek potatoes and roasted vegetables) were perfectly medium rare, tender from a citrus-spiked marinade and smoky from a light char on the grill. Moussaka ($12.99, with rice and salad) satisfied with hearty layers of marinated eggplant and zucchini on a base of creamy potatoes. Topped with a lightly sweetened béchamel sauce tinged with aromatic spices, the casserole hit all the right notes – except the loose ground beef in the center provided too crumbly a companion for the dense layers of vegetables and creamy richness of the béchamel.

Service: Impeccable, friendly service on every visit made for hospitable dining.

For the kids: The children’s menu gets the mom seal of approval with eight interesting choices for kid eats, priced at $5.99. I nudged my 8-year-old son to try the children’s gyros or souvlaki, but he opted for the Kraft Mac & Cheese. Foodie mom strikes out again.

My Greek Restaurant

Where: 13333 Meridian East, Puyallup

Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Sundays-Thursdays and 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays

Contact: 253-864-6000 or www.my greekmediterraneangrillandmore.com

Details: Credit cards accepted

Prices: Entrees $12.99-$19.99 at dinner