If you want soul-stirring soul food in Tacoma's Lincoln neighborhood, you no longer have to call Lincoln Lanes and ask for "the kitchen." Now you can just call 253-475-1881 and ask, "Is this Uncle Thurm's?"
Thurmond Brokenbrough, who cooked up ribs, chittlins and grits at The Rail Splitter, opened Uncle Thurm's Soul Food three weeks ago. His new joint is at 3709 S. G St., a block north of 38th Street.
Here's what I wrote about Uncle Thurm's cooking last year:
"...Soul Food Medley shines in deliciously living color: smoky pork ribs that could anchor a barbecue joint. Fried chicken that wore its golden skin like a glove. Evenly seasoned Cajun catfish strips, flour-battered and pan-fried perfectly.
"This is Sunday dinner at home." My colleague from Louisville, Ky., wore a wide, satisfied smile. He hadn't even gotten to the vinegar-spiked, pork-studded greens, the plump and cheesy macaroni or the best red beans and rice in town.
I enjoyed my first meal of pig intestines ... Chopped and simmered, they had the perfect balance of offal goodness: meaty, mushy and chewy, all in one forkful. Yellow onions and celery mellowed the briny pungency.
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Uncle Thurm serves breakfast, lunch and dinner.