After spotting a moose, I spot the "Mushing Mortician." Along the Iditarod Trail, in Alaska's snow-coated wilderness, 57-year-old funeral home owner Scott Janssen barks, "Straight! Straight!" to his sled dogs barreling toward a checkpoint 311 miles into the famed, grueling and controversial 1,000-mile race. Nearby, canine teams rest on scattered straw; one musher removes his dogs' protective booties to rub ointment on their paws while another feeds slabs of Chinook salmon to her hungry pack before the next push.