Long a guest of Seattle, the Northwest Regional Barista Competition came to Tacoma this weekend for a three-day test of artisan coffee preparation.

On Saturday, the second day of the semifinals, baristas brewed both the required pours and a set of “signature drinks” incorporating such exotic ingredients as agave nectar and coconut milk.

The winner of today’s finals will move on to the 10-region national competition in Portland, the winner of which will advance to the international finals in Atlanta.

This weekend, the 21 entrants came with their own beans, cups, glasses and table settings from Alaska and Oregon as well as Olympia; Seattle; Ridgefield and Vancouver in Clark County; and Tacoma.

Jay Lijewski, coffee program developer at the event host, Sumner-based Dillanos Coffee Roasters, said the competition is being held here “because Dillanos is in love with Tacoma. We lobbied to have it in Tacoma.”

Each barista had 15 minutes to prepare and 15 minutes to brew and serve the espresso, cappuccino and signature drinks.

“It’s almost like an ‘Iron Chef’ for coffee,” said Lijewski. “A lot of them have been training for four or five months.”

Four tasting judges sampled for sensory elements while other judges metered technical aspects.

“We’re trying to elevate the name ‘barista,’ to make it something like a sommelier,” Lijewski said.

“Dillanos wanted to reach out to the barista community, raising the bar as to what coffee can do, and can be,” said Lon LaFlamme, the company’s marketing director. “We want to start exploring what it all takes to produce a cup of coffee.”

To begin, it takes a clean workspace. Judges will consider that.

They also measure the thickness of the “crema,” that layer of foam floating atop an espresso. And the color. It should be flecked with light brown, the color of hazelnuts, with a reddish tint.

And the taste. A touch of sweet, a little acid, a bit bitter.

The foam on the cappuccino should be no thicker, no thinner than 1 centimeter. The foam should be glossy; the taste, again, balanced.

Most of the competitors came from one- and two-store cafes. Neither Starbucks nor Tully’s was there.

This is about the artists.

In the audience sat several dozen friends, relatives, co-workers and members of the coffee-curious public. And the media.

“The Northwest Regional has traditionally been the pre-eminent regional,” said Sarah Allen, editor of Barista Magazine, who was reporting the event.

“There’s so much happening with specialty coffee in Tacoma. People are taking coffee more seriously. Palates are becoming more sophisticated.”

Among the judges was Stephen Morrissey of Ireland, who last June was named the World Barista Champion at the finals in Copenhagen, Denmark, and whose signature drink included flambéed chocolate mousse.

Following the announcement of the finalists Saturday evening, Lijewski said the buzz around the competition centered on Seattle barista Brett Walker’s signature drink.

It was, he said, inspired by custard.

C.R. Roberts: 253-597-8535

Today’s finals

What: Northwest Regional Barista Competition

When: 10:30 a.m.

Where: Temple Theatre, 47 St. Helens Ave., Tacoma

The finalists: Robbie Britt and Brett Walker of Seattle; Kevin Fuller and Alex Pond of Portland; Kristina Merryman of Ridgefield, Clark County; Michael Elvin of Olympia

Cost: Free