Some creperies do the double fold over. Others do the pocket square fold. Some even roll crepes into cigar-shaped cylinders.
At Craft 19, a new creperie and coffeehouse that opened last week in downtown Sumner, chef Natasha Gunia uses a fold that looks like a tidy envelope. I’ve heard chefs call it “the tri-fold.”
Tucked into her crepes were layers of ingredients in six savory or sweet configurations. A lox and cream cheese crepe also held snappy cucumbers ($9). Another wrapped together triple-layered prosciutto with fresh-sliced pears, brie and a honey drizzle ($9.50). And another layered an artichoke-spinach sauce with parmesan, sliced chicken breast and thick-cut bacon ($8.50).
Sweet selections included strawberry ($6.50); Nutella, strawberry and banana ($7) and a spiced pumpkin ($8) with chocolate sauce.
Gunia grew up in Puyallup, but left to attend the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, New York, then cooked her way across the country in catering and as a private chef. Her crepe training came from five months spent in New Orleans making “the crepe of the day” at French Quarter restaurant Tableau (owned by third generation New Orleans restaurant owner Dickie Brennan).
Her crepe batters, made in-house, are the house standard flour-egg-and-milk-based batter or a gluten-free version made with rice flour.
Crepes make up half of the focus here, with coffee getting equal attention. Find coffee roasted at Sumner’s Dillanos Coffee Roasters (the company roasts a blend specifically for Craft 19) and milk comes from Othello dairy Pure Éire.
It’s this newspaper’s policy to withhold criticism of food and service until after a restaurant’s first month of business, which is why I’m focusing here on describing concept and atmosphere.
Craft 19 is owned by Sumner doctor Waldo Dagan, who hired Bryan Reynolds, known to local coffee house watchers as the owner of Anthem Coffee in Puyallup and Tacoma, to oversee the project.
Like Anthem, the interior of Craft 19 slipped between modern and comfortable. Sleek lines soared from front to back of the building that spent its former life as a thrift store operated by the Salvation Army. Alona Pernula designed the space that includes a combination of low- and high-top tables and a seating area surrounding a fireplace.
Reynolds said the creperie and coffeehouse is still getting its footing and has experienced an unexpected response from local diners. They’ve beat their projections four fold, said Reynolds. Up next is increasing the number of crepe griddles to keep up with the demand.
Just think of downtown Sumner as a great breakfast destination. The creperie is in the middle of a neighborhood filled with terrific breakfast offerings, including Berryland Cafe, Buttered Biscuit and Dixie’s Home Cooking.
CRAFT 19 ESPRESSO AND CREPERIE
Where: 1201 Main St., Sumner.
Hours: 5:59 a.m.-7 p.m. weekdays; 7 a.m.-7 p.m. Saturdays-Sundays.
More crepes: The South Sound is home to three other creperies. Savor Creperie in downtown Tacoma serves the most extensive crepes menu. The Harbor General Store and Cafe in Gig Harbor also serves crepes. Also in Gig Harbor, Occasions Coffee and Crepes uses crepes as the foundation for its roll-up sandwiches.