Here’s how to have a small, locally-sourced and delicious Thanksgiving

For some, the idea of having dinner with your nuclear family, again, without aunts and uncles and interloping friends, might feel like torture. For others, having the world’s failures decide your guest list might be the best thing to happen to you in 2020.

I am in the latter camp.

The idea of getting on a plane full of holiday travelers — or, rather, paying for the inevitably expensive ticket, no matter how early the purchase — never ceases to shower me with anxiety.

Health officials have warned for months of a winter wave, and rolling days of record numbers of COVID-19 cases implicate that it has indeed arrived. As Lacy Fehrenbach, Washington state Deputy Secretary of Health for COVID-19 Response, said plainly this week, this virus “doesn’t take holidays.”

Gov. Inslee has implored Washingtonians to change plans if they involved traveling, even by car to a family member’s house for dinner.

In this shade, I see opportunity. What better year to focus on yourself, your immediate family, and your local community?

Safeway and Fred Meyer have already stocked their shelves with Christmas candy. The fridges are filled with Perdue turkeys and Libby’s pumpkin pie filling. Forget about it.

Consider this a to-do list to stay local, buy local — and keep busy while forgetting how much everything else sucks. In that order.

Call the butcher

We are fortunate in Pierce County to have recently welcomed Owens Meats to The Public Market at Point Ruston. The family-owned butcher has been serving Cle Elum for more than 100 years.

In addition to the vast selection of meats always in the case, for Thanksgiving they have fresh and smoked turkeys, bone-in ham and prime rib. Who says turkey is essential? Co-owner Doug Owens encourages calling ahead to ensure availability.

In the North End, Dave’s Meat & Produce is also taking orders for free-range turkeys, turkey breasts and hams.

A whole turkey might seem like overkill this year, but embrace the size. Use the leftovers to make turkey pot pies and turkey chili, both highly freezable, and homemade turkey stock to last you and the family through soup season.

The benefit of going to the butcher, instead of any old grocery store, is that the skilled staff will help you choose the right-sized turkey and handle the tough parts of preparation. If you want to cook the whole bird in anticipation of also making the above, ask the butcher to spatchcock it — a process of flattening the backbone, which lends a more even cook and desirable crispy skin. Alternatively, cut into breasts, wings, legs and body, you can easily cook only what’s needed and save the rest for later. The upside of both options is juicy, not dry, meat.

Shop at two farmers markets

Bundle up for two area farmers markets ready to stack your holiday with all things local in a safe, outdoor shopping environment.

On Saturday, Nov. 14 and again Nov. 21, visit the Proctor Farmers Market, which continues weekly through Dec. 19 on 27th Street between Madison and Proctor. On Thursday, Nov. 19, head to downtown Tacoma between 10 a.m. and 2 p.m. (At Point Ruston, the winter market will set up for pre-holiday shopping at Point Ruston on Sundays: Nov. 29, Dec. 6 and Dec. 13.)

Let the season guide you. Pacific Northwest produce is ripe for Thanksgiving sides, ranging from winter squash and hardy greens to Brussels sprouts, cranberries, hazelnuts, oodles of potatoes and apples, pears, frozen berries and jams. Fish and select pasture-raised meats will also be on hand.

For a low-prep appetizer (Proctor market only), stop by the tent of Mountain Lodge Farm. This cheesemonger is based in Eatonville, producing memorable soft-ripened goat and cow milk cheeses. Then say hello to Salt Blade, a Seattle-based salumeria using meat from Olsen Farms in northeast Washington, for links of saucisson sec, sopressata and the Seattle Stick, an addictive salami with coffee and cacao nibs. Don’t forget the Purdy’s Pickles and Dancing Bee Apiary honey as accoutrements, and a loaf of bread.

You could do all your shopping at one or both of these markets, replete with hard cider and beer, flower bouquets and fall wreaths. Supplemental Nutrition Assistance Program users can also swipe their Electronic Benefit Cards at both markets and receive double their dollar on fruits and vegetables.

Head to locally owned grocers

For the basics, and perhaps some surprises, turn to independently owned markets like Tacoma Boys and Central Co-op, where you’ll find local produce and packaged goods, including Smith Brothers dairy products for easy (and unbeatable) homemade whipped cream.

Local goods at both stores are marked as such. Look for these signs in vegetable crates.

Be brave and buy a “pie pumpkin” but don’t carve it: Scoop out the innards to conjure your own pie filling. It’s messy and meticulous, but worth the time to separate the seeds — high in fiber, magnesium and zinc. Rinse, pat dry and roast with a light toss of salt, pepper, cumin and paprika for a crunchy snack.

Buy dessert instead of making it

When hosting Thanksgiving, guests often bring dessert. Maintain that tradition by buying a pie, cookies or other treats from local bakers and ice cream makers.

While visiting Owens Meats, stop by Only Oat Cookies for seasonal cookie flavors like sweet potato pie and cranberry white chocolate chip, or Blessings Bakery and Catering for pies and sides. Add a few bags of Pike Place Nuts for that cheese plate. (Can you tell what tugs my heartstrings?) Outside the market but still at Point Ruston, swing into Ice Cream Social for any number of classic and seasonal flavors, including Sweet Potato Marshmallow and Cranberry Orange. (Note that the Sixth Avenue store has closed as the company builds a production facility and scoop shop in Hilltop.)

It’s worth a jaunt to University Place for a few pints of Bliss Creamery’s dreamy flavors like Candied Maple Walnut and Cinnamon Apple Pie. Their vegan selection, most with a coconut milk base, includes Pumpkin Bar and Peanut Butter Cacao Crisp.

At the Broadway farmers market, select a variety of miniature cheesecakes from Mason’s Cheesecake Co., a 10-year-old baker selling in Tacoma for the first time. (Chef Mason is a regular vendor at the Puyallup Farmers Market.) Flavors range from Rocky Road and Lemon Cream to Pumpkin Pie and Dutch Apple Pie.

Micro-baker Spilled Butter Desserts ($27-$47, order online by Nov. 21 at noon) has everything from pear spice cake with cranberry curd to pumpkin caramel marshmallow pie, three-layer cakes, scones and owner Brianne Day’s famous Pop-Tarts.

Near McKinley, Old Times Bakery, a humble European outfit with a dizzying array of pastries, is taking orders for apple, lemon, pumpkin, pecan, and berry pies, as well as cheesecake.

Around the corner in the Dome District, Celebrity Cake Studio has themed cakes ($41.50-$65) — like an adorable, and masked, turkey cake — and autumnal cookies ($25 for assortment).

In South Tacoma, Pasteles Finos del Angel satisfies for vegan sweets, including holiday pies ($30, order by Nov. 24) in four flavors: apple, cherry, raspberry and pumpkin.

Over in Gig Harbor, Gertie and the Giant Octopus has only recently returned from a pandemic-induced hiatus. The restaurant is offering full meals to-go, but you can order pies ($32-$38, order by Nov. 22) à la carte in three flavors: pumpkin, apple crisp, pecan bourbon. Choose a gluten-free crust for an additional $10.

In Sumner, sister-owned Hometown Charm Cafe is taking orders for three styles of pie ($25-$30): pumpkin topped with pie crisp cookies, maple pecan and sweet potato.

Farther north in Kent, KJ’s Cakery and Bakery has select pre-order dates for traditional sweet potato pie, peach cobbler and banana pudding ($18-$25, order online).

Sit back, relax, and pair dessert with a hot cup of locally roasted coffee.

Mask up before you head out to shop, keep your distance, and don’t forget the booze.

A VERY SOUTH SOUND THANKSGIVING

▪ Owens Meats at The Public Market: 5105 Yacht Club Road, Ruston, 253-212-1617

▪ Dave’s Meat & Produce: 1321 N I St., Tacoma, 253-280-9999

▪ Proctor Farmers Market: N 27th St. at Proctor, Tacoma, Saturdays through Dec. 19, 9 a.m.-2 p.m.

▪ Tacoma Farmers Market: Broadway at 9th St., Tacoma, Nov. 19, 10 a.m.-2 p.m.

▪ Tacoma Boys: 5602 6th Ave., Tacoma, 253-756-0902; 901 39th Ave. SW, Puyallup, 253-864-8568

▪ Central Co-op: 4502 N Pearl St., Tacoma, 253-888-4288

▪ Bliss Creamery: 3556 Market Pl. W, University Place, 253-327-1061

▪ Ice Cream Social: 5107 Main St., Ruston, 253-507-5448

▪ Spilled Butter Desserts: 3856 Center St., Tacoma, 253-414-5432

▪ Old Times Bakery: 3514 Pacific Ave., Tacoma, 253-625-5898

▪ Celebrity Cake Studio: 314 E. 26th St., Tacoma, 253-627-4773

▪ Pasteles Finos del Angel: 5102 S Washington St., Tacoma,253-448-2649

▪ Gertie and the Giant Octopus: 4747 Point Fosdick Dr., Gig Harbor, 253-649-0921

▪ Hometown Charm Cafe: 1012 Main St., Sumner, 253-987-7633

▪ KJ’s Cakery & Bakery: 204 Central Ave. N, Kent, 253-277-2516

This story was originally published November 14, 2020 at 5:00 AM.