See how the burger king of Tacoma makes magic from the confines of a food trailer

Under the 19th Street Grocery & Deli sign sits a food trailer, parked since 2015 in the corner of this convenience store lot. A few wooden planter boxes create a modest perimeter and a custom-built metal awning a respite from the rain. There are no tables.

Not only is there no online ordering, there is no phone. Depending on the time of day, you’re likely to wait in line, relaxed by tunes like “Dynamite” by K-Pop band BTS rolling straight into Bill Withers’ “Lovely Day,” as you decipher if today’s sunshine begs for the namesake burger or the sliced beef Bulgogiger.

You’ll also wait a few minutes for your order, especially during peak times, because Burger Seoul owner Young La doesn’t take shortcuts.

All the better. It allows a moment to observe him and his team, including his frequent Instagram dance partner Jordan Bostic, interacting with customers in a refreshingly raw way — the kind with familial greetings and idiosyncratic alley-oops of a basketball shot when the customer realizes he snagged the last Fire Soul of the day.

That’s the allure of Burger Seoul — along, of course, with the juicy sandwiches made with creative vision and constant care, a near-perfect amalgamation of American indulgence and Korean spirit.

“True Korean American food,” La says.

The Bulgogiger and its sister sandwich with pork personify this mashup.

The Fire Soul starts with a pile of Fire Soul Meat — thinly sliced pork butt, marinated for about 12 hours with a little onion, garlic, and, importantly, ginger and gochujang, then char-grilled to order.

“That’s what makes the Fire Soul the fire flavor,” says La.

In between a brioche bun, he places it on a few crunchy romaine leaves and tops it with housemade Korean pickles for tang and the locally famous Fire Sauce — Heinz tuned up with chili, onion, garlic and lots more gochujang.

The menu describes it as “Tacoma’s favorite hangover cure,” probably because it’s so good it will make you forget what happened last night, but it zings any time of day. Just ask anyone in line, who has probably been there before and might even be in Tacoma only for the day, choosing this little food truck for an early dinner.

Pair with a pile of garlic or sweet potato fries. You can also taste the Fire Soul meat in the fries of the same name, sprinkled also with parmesan.

Until 2020, La offered just six items. The Burger Seoul was the only true burger: a 70/30 blend of ground chuck and short rib, sourced from Dave’s Meat & Produce in the North End, with melted Tillamook sharp cheddar, lettuce, onion and a generous drizzle of Seoul Sauce. He has since added the SeoulX, a burger topped with the Fire Soul pork — a spin on the seemingly ever-present bacon burger — and the Avocasoul. House guacamole and La’s desire to keep things interesting means the latter is only available on Tuesdays and Wednesdays for now.

“We want to keep it fresh,” he said. Morning mashed avocados lose their luster after the sun goes down.

I asked if they were busy on a recent Wednesday thanks to the sun; he laughed and said they’re always busy. Before 4 p.m., they had run out of pork.

BURGER SEOUL TURNS FIVE

Burger Seoul recently turned five. La remains humble about the brand’s success, which includes a mention in Buzzfeed as one of the country’s most popular burgers, but he also knows he has created something special.

“Five years is a long period of time,” he said. “We can’t take it for granted. That’s motivating for me. It’s a great feeling.”

The idea for Burger Seoul was born in his home country of South Korea, where he began cooking these kinds of burgers for Koreans, and “people were loving it,” he said. A visiting American told him the concept would flourish in America. La had family in Pierce County. His mother helped strike a deal with the owner of the convenience store. It changed hands a couple of years ago, but thankfully, Burger Seoul remains parked in the corner.

When you pull into the parking lot, you kind of get that feeling that this place is about more than the food. You need only scan the Burger Seoul Instagram page to understand that it’s personal. La skips around town, always looking fly in cuffed Levi’s, a linen shirt and combat boots, holding the Avocasoul like he’s a magician revealing the rabbit — or maybe he’s catching a pass from across the dock. He’s dancing in tandem with Bostic in many-a-video, dressed in a suit and tie, or posing with one of his first and most loyal customers.

“I want to be a certain character, to express myself — we all do,” he said. Food is “an expression of yourself. Burger Seoul, it’s being a lifestyle. It’s a part of who you are.”

La studied business at nearby colleges but was never formally trained in cooking. He also has a vested interest in fashion and design; he developed the logo, which recently has found its way onto beanies, Lee denim work shirts and a blue plaid button-down. Like the sandwiches, availability is limited.

“We believed at the beginning, one day people would really see us,” said La.

It’s worked, to the point that he is seeking a brick-and-mortar somewhere in Tacoma, where the Burger Seoul brand — food, clothing, soul — will come together as one.

BURGER SEOUL

▪ 1750 S. Prospect St., Tacoma, no phone, instagram.com/BURGERSEOUL

▪ Daily 11 a.m.-8:30 p.m.

▪ Details: Korean American burgers and sandwiches; packaged Soul Sauce available