Onion rings top $5 apps at this neighborhood bar not far from Tacoma’s Point Defiance

Sometimes you just need onion rings, and when you do, you go to Cole’s.

The menu describes them as having been breaded in-house and “deep fried to golden perfection,” and they are, every time. Every time, they will also cost you just $5 (plus tax and tip of course), a steal considering many places charge a few bucks more for frozen versions and various forms of soggy circles.

Dip in the slightly spicy “boom” sauce, drink your Manny’s, and watch the game. Chat with friends. Make new ones. You’re at the bar.

It feels good, doesn’t it?

Cole’s opened in 2017 under the purview of Jeff and Helen Fraychineaud, the owners of beloved Tacoma haunts including The Parkway, Hank’s Bar and Terry’s Office Tavern. The family added West End Pub on Sixth Avenue and Proctor last year. These five bars share an affinity for the old-school — whether it’s the mahogany bar at Hank’s, the carpeted (re-carpeted!) Terry’s, or the tap handles adorning the ceiling at Parkway — but they all manage to carry their own identity.

On the corner of 51st and Pearl streets in Ruston, Cole’s shares its historic building with Macaluso’s, another neighborhood gem that’s probably more fitting of a trip across town. You can get burgers and onion rings in many locales, but I travel for Cole’s. Perhaps it’s the rare hand-cut fries that accompany any burger, sandwich and three-piece order of fried cod. Maybe it’s the charbroiled beef or the fact that a cup of soup is but $3.

It’s also the adults-only environs (now after 8 p.m.), the diverse seating options — bar, table, booth, small patio overlooking a beautiful Chevron, the ample screens. Though remodeled top to bottom, the space feels lived-in, with custom brick floors, exposed beams and minimal decor. Sixteen taps satisfy for regional variety, with one nitro and one dedicated to cider, and one with Coors Light if that’s your play.

Most of all, the staff treats you like a friend, a regular, even if you’re not. It’s not necessarily like that at Cole’s sister bars, or most bars.

A recent weekend visit revealed the swath of characters who agree: three fellows in their late 20s laughed over beers outside, a dressed-up couple settled into a table after 9 p.m., a middle-aged double date sat at another, and a larger group occupied the nook.

Pre-pandemic, we watched a playoff football game sitting at the bar. It’s not known as a sports bar, which means it wasn’t crowded or loud. It was pleasant.

On weekends, sip a house Bloody Mary with pepper vodka or an unpretentious French 75 with a $9 order of pancakes and sausage. Stay a while. You’re welcome here.

▪ Value: excellent — $50 for an app, two sandwiches and two beers

▪ Quality: fair — typical bar food but touches like hand-cut fries, house-breaded onion rings and homemade soup improve the lot

▪ Atmosphere: come-as-you-are bar, ready for singles, couples and groups; not rowdy but not boring

▪ Returnability: Pubs abound, but when you don’t want a crowded sports bar, you don’t want mediocre food, and you don’t want to overspend, Cole’s works.

COLE’S BAR & GRILL

▪ 5811 N. 51st St., Ruston, 253-267-1914, colesruston.com

▪ Daily 11 a.m.-11 p.m. (open at 9 a.m. weekends and ‘til 2 a.m. Friday-Saturday)

▪ Details: standard bar fare with hand-cut fries and weekend breakfast, $5 apps and 16 taps; minors permitted until 8 p.m. with extended hours coming soon

This story was originally published July 11, 2021 at 5:00 AM.