Sometimes you just want a sushi burrito. This is a decent place to get one. Ramen, too

The creation of the sushi burrito is credited to a savvy entrepreneur in San Francisco — where else? — who was, as the story goes, tired of the lackluster quality of lunch options near his office. Peter Yen wanted convenience and quality, which in 2011 remained rare. In the decade since, fast-casual concepts, including his own Sushirrito, have answered that call in droves.

Some postulated that the sushi burrito craze would rise and fall like other “mutant foods,” but it has withstood the test of time, and if the crowds at Zen Ramen & Sushi Burrito are any indication of the South Sound’s affectation for this hybrid wrap, it’s here to stay.

There are now three locations in Pierce County to try Zen’s menu: the original in Parkland, one in Lakewood and one in Tacoma’s Stadium District, opened by Namsoon Choi and her husband last year.

The Chois previously operated Saritgol, where the Lakewood Zen now resides, at 9205 South Tacoma Way, in the same plaza as El Pulgarcito III. Her brother, Jamie, now owns that Zen along with the one in Parkland. The couple runs the Tacoma shop at 322 Tacoma Ave. S.

Though the sushi burritos are inherently equipped for on-the-go consumption, the atmosphere at Zen is fun, with sealed plywood tables and artwork from the Japanese manga series “Naruto” painted on the walls. A few tables with banquette seating line the far wall, with one high-top table, but opt for one of the three booths — tucked into their own little nook with a street view — if trying a bowl of ramen, which is best enjoyed on site.

I understand the allure of sushi burritos. They’re clever, and the versions at Zen are fresh, affordable and filling. The Tuna Love packs fish, seaweed and crab salad with edamame, avocado, cucumber and pickled radish into rice wrapped with an exterior layer of nori. The Pop Rock benefits from the crunch of fried shrimp and cool crab salad with jalapeno and spicy mayo, but the exterior rice layer here — flecked with fried panko — falls apart so easily as to render the burrito a deconstructed poke bowl. (Zen also serves poke.)

It’s a fine choice for a fish-centric lunch or affordable dinner, but I can’t shake the feeling I get when eating their Mexican counterparts. In that case I wish I were having tacos; in this case, I long for standard sushi rolls. The fish could also benefit from more even distribution.

The other part of the Zen concept is equally satisfying and won’t break the bank, especially considering the large portions with just enough noodles. Tonkotsu bowls arrive quickly, brought to your table by cart, within 10 minutes of ordering — just enough time to take a few sips of your giant can of Sapporo. The opaque pork broth can be had in various iterations on the same theme, most with chasu (pork belly) and the requisite bamboo shoots, bean sprouts, scallions and seasoned soft-boiled egg layered on top.

The kimchi version adds a little zing, further enhanced by a few drops of chili oil, available upon request. A chicken bowl uses the pork base, but a vegetarian option sticks with shoyu (soy sauce).

If you are tempted, as we were, by the bowl with fried pop-rock shrimp, consider asking for the seafood on the side. As we slurped, the fried batter soaked into the broth, killing the crunch and diminishing the hearty pork flavor with the aftertaste of frying oil.

Order at the counter and find a seat, or take that sushi burrito to the streets.

Note that the Parkland location is often quite busy due to its proximity to Pacific Lutheran University. The Tacoma location draws crowds, too, and does brisk takeout business, while the Lakewood location leans toward the quiet side.

▪ Value: fair — $50 for bowls of ramen or sushi burritos and two (tall) beers

▪ Quality: fair — for fast-casual that’s cool enough to bring a date, it’s perfectly fresh and fun

▪ Atmosphere: contemporary, no-frills setup ideal for groups and low-key dates

▪ Returnability: Sushi burrito cravings exist, and here is a fine place to satisfy them. There are other choices for ramen, but with three family-owned locations, sometimes you just choose zen.

ZEN RAMEN & SUSHI BURRITO

▪ Downtown Tacoma: 322 Tacoma Ave. S., Tacoma, 253-302-3461

▪ Lakewood: 8534 S. Tacoma Way, Lakewood, 253-582-6713

▪ Parkland: 528 Garfield St. S., Tacoma, 253-292-0731

▪ Details: fast-casual Japanese with limited beer, wine and sake; call to order takeout

This story was originally published July 18, 2021 at 5:00 AM.