Late-night taqueria returns to Tacoma — without the meat
Street-style tacos and burritos brimming with juicy barbacoa and cochinita pibil have returned to Tacoma’s Sixth Avenue, but at El Borracho 2.0, seitan subs for beef and jackfruit for pork.
The Mexican restaurant, which closed in November 2020 due to pandemic-related financial strife, quietly reopened last weekend as a fully plant-based concept in its original location.
“It went great!” said manager Kittie Davidovich. “We are very happy to be back in Tacoma.”
Fourteen months ago, she told The News Tribune the Seattle-based group was working with the landlord and teased a potential plant-based revitalization. The group already was known for its plentiful vegetarian and vegan options, as well as its late-night happy hour. Last July, El Borracho’s original Ballard location transitioned, followed by the Pike Place Market restaurant in August.
She anticipated an autumn start date in Tacoma, but delays ranged from staffing and supply-chain challenges to the complicated reality of jump-starting a restaurant that had been closed for more than a year.
The Sixth Avenue spot feels very similar — decor, furniture, layout — but the windows are emblazoned with the new mantra: 100 percent plant-based.
You can dip thin, crispy tortilla chips into guacamole, made with organic avocados, and queso, now made with a soy-free, plant-based substitute that’s just as dippable as its inspiration. Burritos still feature black or refried beans, but instead of carne asada your choices range from spicy chipotle potatoes to “shrymp” dusted with Tajin and “soyrizo” spiced with garlic, paprika and red pepper.
The menu also offers these seven proteins on composed tacos or in bowl form, alongside house-pickled escabeche.
Reception at the Seattle restaurants was strong, according to Davidovich, and both welcomed visitors from Tacoma eager to try the new dishes. I was one of those Tacomans and was particularly pleased with the spicy potato taco, served with chipotle sour cream and crunchy fried jalapenos — it would not by any means be out of place at a standard taqueria.
Many of the proteins are gluten-free, and for those cognizant of the prevalence of soy in plant-based meats, might I suggest digging into the jackfruit cochinita pibil? The fibrous tropical fruit pulls in a way that resembles pulled pork, and its slightly sweet flavor profile succeeds in absorbing spices and other flavors. These days you’ll see it in recipes for everything from tacos to curries.
Aside from the lack of animal products, the service model at El Borracho has adjusted to the “rapidly changing restaurant industry,” as Davidovich initially described the vegan stylings. Guests order food and nonalcoholic drinks online at their table but start a tab with an employee for beer, wine and cocktails. Bar seating, however, is full-service.
Also reflecting a changing industry: 100 percent of tips added to online food sales, including takeout orders, benefit kitchen staff.
The Tacoma location will operate on limited hours to start, with the goal of expanding in the spring and rekindling its famous happy hour soon.
EL BORRACHO TACOMA
▪ 2717 6th Ave., 253-314-5286, elborracho.co
▪ Wednesday-Saturday 4 p.m.-midnight
▪ Details: plant-based Mexican; tacos $4-$5.25, burritos $11.25-$13 (“shorties” $6.50-$7.50), bowls $12-$14.25, nachos $13
This story was originally published February 1, 2022 at 5:00 AM.