Fast option for seafood ends in downtown Gig Harbor as restaurant closes one year in
Fast-casual seafood restaurant Kettlefish has closed in Gig Harbor, almost a year to the date of its debut at 7806 Pioneer Way.
The concept centered on fish stews — cioppino, bouillabaisse, clams and mussels in a white wine broth — and chowders made-to-order in steam-powered, stainless steel kettles. Other dishes included fried cod, prawns and oysters, plus a pair of seafood tacos on flour tortillas.
Dave Montoure, who opened the first Kettlefish in Silverdale with business partner Paddy O’Brien five years ago, said the Gig Harbor restaurant suffered from a dropoff of foot traffic since Labor Day. He also said they noticed a dip after their neighbor Harbor General Store closed unexpectedly in March.
“We felt that impact right away,” Montoure told The Gateway and The News Tribune in a phone call Thursday, Oct. 19, the last day of service. “It’s challenging for a company of our scale and our size — we really rely on day-to-day foot traffic. We had a fun summer … I wish it could last nine months instead of three months.”
Kettlefish was unusual in its approach to seafood, offering a casual, counter-service environment for dishes usually reserved for more expensive sit-down experiences. As Montoure told us as he was planning the Gig Harbor location, which replaced the already-shuttered Kelly’s Cafe & Espresso, “We want people to enjoy a really high-quality meal without having to commit to two hours.”
In addition to buying their proteins from sustainable sources, the owners also emphasized that the steam-powered kettles cooked seafood “perfectly” in minutes and saved energy. The technique is more commonly used in commercial settings of schools and hospitals, and there are a few famous places in New York City and Las Vegas that are known for their kettle cooking.
Montoure also cited higher prices as a major reason for the closure.
“Seafood has a higher price point, so it’s hard for us to command a high menu price when you’re in a casual environment,” he said.
A cup of clam chowder — also made by kettle — was $7.50. Served in deep bowls, signature stews, including a Pacific pan roast with oysters, shrimp and cod, started at $18, topping out at $25 for the bouillabaisse (with one fish and four types of shellfish in a saffron and fennel-infused tomato broth) and cioppino (also with five types of seafood). The fried menu items ranged from $8 to $21 for the Captain’s Platter.
Guests ordered at the counter, where there was ample room to wait. The dining area held about a dozen tables, separated by a waist-high wall. The restaurant also sold beer and wine.
“The cost of doing business has gone up so much in the post-Covid world,” added Montoure, nodding also to increased energy costs. “When gas goes up, that impacts every single thing that touches the store. From employees coming to work or the guy picking up the trash — that doesn’t get absorbed.”
After opening in October 2022, come spring, they tried to recover, but “that added piece of pressure when you’re dealing in a margin industry” proved to be the final nail.
“We had a good run,” he continued, “but the numbers just weren’t quite there for us.”
They are working to find new employment for their staff at both locations, and even received a few messages from nearby restaurants after Gig Harbor Now shared news of the shutter early Oct. 19.
Both Montoure, who ran a Seattle diner and cocktail bar for 19 years, and O’Brien, whose family had a homestyle restaurant in Arlington for decades, are no strangers to the industry. They still believe in the recipes and techniques developed at Kettlefish, and if there is an opportunity for them in another setting, they would consider taking it.
This story was originally published October 20, 2023 at 5:00 AM.