Nearing 1 year in downtown Tacoma, this restaurant deserves more attention than it gets

Who goes out of their way for fried calamari? It might be the most ubiquitous appetizer in America, appearing on menus with obvious connections to its Mediterranean etymology and the typical pub, where deep-fryers rule. Most of the time, it’s not particularly memorable. Just a plate of fried seafood as a vehicle for some sort of mildly spiced, mayo-based dipping sauce. In the hands of a kitchen that cares, it can be deeply gratifying.

At West 122, the shallow bowl of lightly battered, salted and perfectly seasoned squid — with almost an equal number of rounds and their crunchy, tiny-tentacled friends — has thrice won me over. What I love most about chef Joaquin Buttner’s take, though, is the addition of pepperoncinis fried in tandem. Dipped into a downy Old Bay-spiked aioli, you almost forget which is which.

I informed the chef, known by his nickname Keno with a resume spanning multiple decades here and in California, of my obsession. “If you like calamari, you’ve had a lot of bad calamari,” he replied. It’s one of those “easy to do, hard to perfect” kind of dishes.

For it alone I would return to this downtown newcomer, the first full-service endeavor for primary owners Patrick and Keri Sherman, also behind North 47 Brewing Co. in Browns Point. (They plan to open a taproom and bar-snack hangout in the adjoining space, currently empty but for an office upstairs.) I am also hooked on the work of talented bar manager David Bocanegra.

Thanks to him and the Shermans’ unique selection of mostly regional wines sprinkled with new-age French and Spanish bottles, West 122 is as much a cocktail and wine bar as it is a restaurant.

I’m not sure that was intentional, but the beverage program has been consistently excellent next to a kitchen that, at times, has seemed unsure of exactly what it wants to be. Yet over several visits, I think we — as in the gritty, royal, Tacoma kind — are underappreciating what West 122 has brought back to Pacific Avenue.

Out of the gate, Bocanegra’s list was one of the most interesting in town and his execution has proven that he has a knack for both the classics and the reimagined: A negroni embraces a whisper of cherry, a mezcal sipper seamlessly joins two amaros and Carpano Antica, a creamy coconut-avocado daiquiri will send you packing on a trip to Mexico.

The initial menu detailed house classics, but now the text implores you to just ask if you’d prefer a martini, old fashioned or Rob Roy. Either way, you are in trusted, if somewhat leisurely, hands.

FINDING COMFORT AGAIN ON PAC AVE

West 122 is not overly buzzy; you won’t feel foolish chancing a table for two at 7 p.m. It’s neither too dark nor too bright; in the back dining room, where sound-absorbing panels and a few minimalist acrylic paintings line the walls, each table holds a sensible gold cordless lamp that emits a warm LED glow. It’s not loud (in fact, it’s sometimes too hushed); you can actually have a conversation with your dining companions and hear your server speak. Well-trained staff sport the timeless uniform of button-downs and dark slacks. Plates are glazed ceramic in creamy-white. The concise 20-item menu suits carnivores, vegetarians and vegans alike. It’s refreshingly comfortable — and I mean that in the best of ways.

Take the roast chicken, also on the menu since the restaurant’s summer 2023 debut.

Buttner and his team break down whole, free-range chickens in-house to furnish an “airline” cut, in which the breast remains attached to the drumette, a style popularized in the ‘60s to maintain moisture in-flight. Underneath its brined then crisped skin, tender meat graciously accepted a forkful of whipped Yukon golds pulled through apple-cider jus. As meat and potatoes goes, reinventing wheels it is not, but the dishes arrived as near replicas on two occasions.

A hefty, juicy Duroc pork chop — double-cut, or rather, with two bones — began as a fall special that has become a mainstay. Carved to about 16 ounces, the chop is brined for 36 hours, superbly seared then finished in the oven and served over a foundation of rich polenta and a moat of apple cider demi-glace.

The kitchen succeeds in such perennial pleasures achieved through practiced techniques — “whimsical throwbacks,” as the chef describes his M.O.

Wary after an early introduction to his pasta via rough, undercooked edges of otherwise flavorful four-cheese ravioli, I was grateful for winter satisfaction in the form of spaghetti and meatballs, elevated by housemade noodles. Again, classic comfort.

A cup of vegan and gluten-free Great Northern bean purée is a clever, soft-as-silk hummus alternative, available at “golden hour” and dinner. Its $11 price tag belies the work that goes into it: slow-simmered with broth, intensely spun and strained through a fine mesh sieve. Refine the presentation and it, too, would be a winning appetizer.

By spring, the Infinite Greens was tossed in just the right amount of sherry-mustard vinaigrette. Few salads hit that bar. This one also sings through an unexpected collection of chicory and fresh “meat” herbs that includes haunting threads of rosemary. The Caesar, in comparison, could use a little zhush in this era of Caesar overload, but it took well to grilled Spanish octopus, offered only as an add-on or standalone side despite being a key feature of the restaurant’s logo.

The limited seafood seems like a missed opportunity in Tacoma, which could use a few more modern options to celebrate our regional delicacies.

On a mid-summer Thursday, the restaurant had sold out of its only fish entrée before 7 p.m.; recent menus have omitted one outside of chef specials. It’s partly the fault of seasonality and availability, said Buttner, as well as the everyday puzzle of knowing how many people will walk through the doors and, frankly, what Tacomans really want.

The signature-worthy salmon tartare, in which cubed fish blankets cubed avocado, will soon return, as King salmon runs get underway by May. I hope the chef has resolved the sturdiness of the beautiful but dainty gaufrette-cut potato chips that accompanied it.

Success with the sea has likewise come and gone. A late September halibut endured a sear so tough it was uncuttable, which was a real let-down once we realized the custard-like innards of its cornmeal cake pedestal. Again, however, came redemption: In January, a special of velvety Dover sole wrapped around spot prawns swam in a buttery-soft bisque that could have just as easily stood on its own. Explained by a staff that clearly learns and tastes the food and drink they serve, both concepts (and their $30-$40 price tags) showed that West 122 is serious about wanting to be one of the city’s best restaurants.

It must contend with being nearly-next-door neighbors to one of the only places in Tacoma that has people spilling out the doors, seven days a week. There’s a reason: consistently great food and service. West 122 will get there, if only we the people give it the chance it deserves.

WEST 122

▪ 728 Pacific Ave., Tacoma, west122.com

▪ 3-9 p.m. Wednesday-Thursday, 3-10 p.m. Friday-Saturday

▪ Golden Hour: Wednesday-Saturday 3-6 p.m., featuring happy-hour-only apps and classic cocktails, $1 off all draft beer and wines by the glass

▪ Recommended Dishes: calamari, white bean purée, Infinite Greens ($11-$14); salmon tartare (seasonal); roast chicken, pork chop, spaghetti and meatballs ($25-$40)

▪ Drinks: most wine pours $10-$13 and bottles $32-$60; cocktails $12-$14

▪ Reservations: recommended but walk-ins always welcome (21+)

TNT DINER TAKE

▪ Value: great — $120-$200 for 2 starters, 2-3 mains and drinks with kind service from hospitality veterans

▪ Quality: thoughtful protein sourcing and seasonal, local produce when available; throwback concepts refined, plus frequent specials

▪ Atmosphere: minimalist and modern with lively front room and bar or more intimate, tucked-away back dining room

▪ Returnability: West 122 offers comforting, crowd-pleasing food with careful attention to the basics that others often miss. Specials and seasonal changes add interest, while the wine and cocktail programs are batting far above the area average. Return for drinks and apps, date nights and dinner with the parents!

This story was originally published April 8, 2024 at 5:00 AM.