TNT Diner

Ambitious Mexican restaurant in Lakewood has closed. Owners say it was losing money

Rey Carbon had reopened at 6112 100th St. SW in Lakewood this August. It closed Dec. 3.
Rey Carbon had reopened at 6112 100th St. SW in Lakewood this August. It closed Dec. 3. ksherred@thenewstribune.com

Rey Carbon, an ambitious Mexican steakhouse and cocktail bar, lasted just three months since its resurrection in Lakewood this summer. The parent company, which also operates the El Rinconsito and El Antojo taqueria chains as well as two Antojos Mexican Grill full-service restaurants, pulled the plug for good last week.

The staff of approximately 15 to 20 people was informed on Tuesday, Dec. 3, and the closure was immediate, according to an employee.

It’s listed as “temporarily closed” on Google. Its website just shows a black page with a little “Rey Carbon” in the middle.

Paul Rydberg, district manager for the Fife-based restaurant group, confirmed the decision in an email.

“We simply did not see the guest traffic increase we were hoping for and the company was not willing to continue to absorb the losses,” he told The News Tribune on Tuesday. “We are discussing plans for a different concept suited for that area and have no immediate plans to try this concept in a different geographical area.”

It’s a loss for Lakewood, a city of 63,000 with a robust, diverse dining scene. Accommodation and foodservice account for more jobs than every sector except for retail and healthcare and social services, according to a 2023 economic report. Despite the breadth of restaurants, casual dominates. Rey Carbon was a breath of creative fresh air, as TNT Diner reported in August.

Rey Carbon, from the owners of the El Rinconsito and El Antojo family of taquerias, lasted a year in Lakewood, with one weeks-long hiatus this summer to regroup.
Rey Carbon, from the owners of the El Rinconsito and El Antojo family of taquerias, lasted a year in Lakewood, with one weeks-long hiatus this summer to regroup. Kristine Sherred ksherred@thenewstribune.com

Yes, the price point was higher than its neighbors, but the quality of the food and cocktails, the talent of the kitchen and the bar portended a destination-worthy option. McDonald’s golden arches were visible across the street, but guests were right to be distracted by the top-tier steak program, which included several Japanese cuts, and dishes like the bone-in carnitas, the halibut crudo and the wild creamed-corn brûlée.

It was comparatively and competitively priced compared to peers in nearby cities.

Owner Abel Brambila and his company had spent years on the building, an old Denny’s, before unveiling the first Rey Carbon in the final months of 2023. It garnered mostly positive reviews, with some commenting on the need for this kind of “fancy” restaurant in Lakewood and many mentions of surprise.

“Wow! It was very unexpected for Lakewood. Absolutely excellent experience,” wrote one reviewer early this year. “Food was excellent. Really nice presentation,” said another.

Rey Carbon stood out in an area full of casual restaurants and fast-food, like McDonald’s visible through the dining room windows.
Rey Carbon stood out in an area full of casual restaurants and fast-food, like McDonald’s visible through the dining room windows. Kristine Sherred ksherred@thenewstribune.com

But many commented on the price, and the idea that the restaurant seemed upscale but didn’t necessarily live up to that ideal.

Brambila closed the restaurant in June to retool the concept. A new chef and general manager joined. It reopened in August with a refreshed menu and staff. It didn’t last.

This story was originally published December 11, 2024 at 9:00 AM.

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Kristine Sherred
The News Tribune
Kristine Sherred joined The News Tribune in 2019, following a decade in Chicago where she worked for restaurants, a liquor wholesaler, a culinary bookstore and a prominent food journalist. In addition to her SPJ-recognized series on Tacoma’s grease-trap policies, her work centers the people behind the counter and showcases the impact of small business on community. She previously reported for Industry Dive and William Reed. Find her on Instagram @kcsherred. Support my work with a digital subscription
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