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Popular North End burger stand to keep cooking for a bit despite meat market’s closure

Ooh La La Burgers will continue serving through the end of March, said Reed. She shares space with Dave’s Meat, which announced it would close permanently last month.
Ooh La La Burgers will continue serving through the end of March, said Reed. She shares space with Dave’s Meat, which announced it would close permanently last month. ksherred@thenewstribune.com

Ooh La La Burgers, the burger stand that leased a kitchen and walk-up window at Dave’s Meat and Produce, will remain open for a few more weeks despite the local grocer’s closure.

Owner Letitia Reed told The News Tribune last week that she and her staff would continue cooking through the end of the month, likely through March 28.

“With high demand from the local community and followers for us not to close, the buzz reached the property owner and he is allowing us to stay longer,” she said in a text message.

Home Sales Team LLC, associated with local real estate agent Craig Tuttle, has owned the property since 2005, according to county records. The 2,200-square-foot market was built in 1961.

Tuttle did not immediately return a request for comment from The News Tribune.

Derek Kipapa, a former wholesale meat professional, opened Dave’s with a business partner who subsequently departed the venture in 2006. He sold the business to Dave Clogston in 2020 but continued working part-time. Clogston alerted Kipapa, who informed Ooh La La around Feb. 9 of the decision to close just a week later.

The market was closed the week of Feb. 17 but reopened to sell through remaining inventory on Saturday, Feb. 23.

In a phone call, Reed, who has operated her burger business at 1312 N. I St. since 2015 following several years at local farmers markets, said she was given little warning.

“It’s very heartbreaking,” she said.

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It took a few years for this “semi-brick-and-mortar,” as she fondly describes the shop’s setup, to take off, but in recent years it had landed on lists including Yelp’s best cheeseburgers in every state in 2022. Inside, they prepped veggies, squeezed lemons for lemonade and baked treats including cookies and brownies, but the burger patties are chargrilled on an outdoor grill.

The relationship with the market and the new owner Clogston was largely convivial, she continued. She and her staff encouraged their customers to shop at the market, and the market staff sent shoppers their way.

“Then this happens — like, wow,” said Reed on Feb. 22. “We know the winter is a tough time. We get through the winter months, I’m thinking, ‘We’re all good — we go through this every year.’ We get through it and we bounce back.”

At first they were able to reach an agreement that the restaurant would continue through the end of February, but as that date neared, Tuttle stepped in to extend the timeframe through March.

Reed is not yet sure of her long-term plans, but she remains hopeful for a brighter future. Her goal was always to expand Ooh La La into a more full-service space.

“Just stay tuned … I’m gonna get through this part, maybe take a breather for a month, but I know me — my brain is cookin’,” she said. “I foresee something bigger. We’re staying optimistic, staying positive.”

For the next four weeks, at least, Ooh La La will keep standard hours on I Street.

OOH LA LA BURGERS

1312 N. I St., Tacoma, 425-698-3645, instagram.com/oohlalaburgers

Monday 11 a.m.-4 p.m., Thursday-Friday 11 a.m.-6 p.m., Friday-Saturday 11 a.m.-5 p.m.

Details: walk-up burger restaurant open through March 28

KS
Kristine Sherred
The News Tribune
Kristine Sherred joined The News Tribune in 2019, following a decade in Chicago where she worked for restaurants, a liquor wholesaler, a culinary bookstore and a prominent food journalist. In addition to her SPJ-recognized series on Tacoma’s grease-trap policies, her work centers the people behind the counter and showcases the impact of small business on community. She previously reported for Industry Dive and William Reed. Find her on Instagram @kcsherred. Support my work with a digital subscription
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