New Mexican brunch spot has corn pancakes, sope benedicts, chilaquiles ‘flights’
The new brunch restaurant at the cusp of Tacoma and University Place was packed on Sunday afternoon, just its second week in business. A DJ and guitarist played from a sound booth as tables welcomed colorful mimosas, chilaquiles “flights” served in an oblong wooden bowl, breakfast burritos, pancakes with corn and mugs of cafe de olla.
The aptly named Casa de los Chilaquiles opened Nov. 8 at 5502 Orchard St. W. The owners, also behind taqueria chains El Antojo and El Rinconsito, previously operated an outpost of their Antojos Mexican Grill at the location but decided it was time to revamp it. A larger Antojos Mexican Grill has served Tacoma’s West End at 6104 6th Ave., since 2022.
Led by Elias Guzman Brambila, a regional manager for the Fife-based company, they landed on a Mexican diner concept by day that will, eventually, offer an evening experience under the name El Vago Bar and Grill.
The daytime menu leans heavy into its namesake. Signature chilaquiles ($22.99-$24.99) range from a fajita-inspired version to one served in a molcajete. The divicorados plays on the traditional egg dish, in which the plate is split into rojo and verde — here, bite-sized square chips are tossed into each salsa and topped with cilantro, pickled red onions, cilantro and crema Oaxaca. It’s all served with two eggs cooked to your preference.
You can also opt to build your own chilaquiles plate (starting at $14.99). Salsa choices extend beyond the usual red and green to habanero, mole, suizos (creamy tomatillo-based), poblano and even betabel — beets, lending a vibrant purple hue. From there, customize with eggs, refried beans, and proteins like birria, chorizo and carne asada.
Brunch dishes (most $14.99-$20.99) continue into other classic categories: simple plates of eggs, homemade hash browns and bacon, ham or sausage; skillets and omelets; huevos in styles including rancheros (fried tortilla spread with beans, crushed salsa, queso fresco, crema) and revueltos with ham or scrambled with chorizo. Benedicts feature classic options as well as one where the sauce is blended with poblano salsa and another where sopes replace the usual English muffin.
In addition to a breakfast burrito with the usual-plus-hash browns ($15.99), the house style is stuffed with beans, chilaquiles and carnitas ($16.99).
Menudos include caldo de res ($21.99) and a traditional tortilla soup ($11.99).
Lots of customers on Sunday opted for the chilaquiles flight and a sweet plate to share. Dig into soft and fluffy buttermilk, chocolate or corn pancakes, the latter finished in the kitchen with evaporated milk and served with whipped cream. They don’t need syrup, but they’ll offer it!
If you’re not in the brunch-y mood, a concise selection of savory options fill the need in the form of tacos, a torta, enchiladas, chicken milanesa and carne asada. In true diner form, there’s also a quarter-pound cheeseburger ($13.99).
To drink, warm up with cafe de olla, cinnamon-tinged Abuelita mocha, and drip coffee with free refills. Featured breakfast cocktails ($13.99-$15.99) include a piña colada, michelada and paloma, plus mimosas ($8.99) with fresh orange juice or alternative flavors of strawberry, mango and guava. Like the chilaquiles, you can also get a mimosa flight. Mojitos, mezcalitas and margaritas similarly offer fruit-forward variations, from passionfruit to tamarind. Beer by the bottle and on tap focuses on Mexican imports, dotted with Elysian and Mac and Jack.
The space, although not the layout, has been updated from its Antojos tenure. We snuck in around 1 p.m. to the bar, which quickly filled up right after we sat down. The rest of the bar area and main dining room turned in the time we were there with couples, father and son, families and groups of friends alike. Staff was attentive, if perhaps a bit surprised at the crowds — the bartender said it was their busiest day yet.
If early crowds are any indication, the Mexican brunch in Tacoma/UP idea was a good one.
On Black Friday, everything on the menu will be half-off — and I bet it will be even more packed.
Casa de los Chilaquiles
- 5502 Orchard St. W., University Place, 253-212-0914, casadeloschilaquileswa.com
- Wednesday-Friday 8 a.m.-3 p.m., Saturday-Sunday 8 a.m.-4 p.m.
- Details: new Mexican brunch restaurant with full bar, mimosa flights and fruit cocktails; all ages in dining room — follow instagram.com/casadeloschilaquiles.wa for events and specials