TNT Diner

Don’t panic – La Fondita taco truck didn’t close, it moved

The Taqueria La Fondita taco truck has moved a block away to Tacoma Avenue South.
The Taqueria La Fondita taco truck has moved a block away to Tacoma Avenue South. skidd@thenewstribune.com

A single question has been trickling in from readers — what happened to the Taqueria La Fondita taco truck in the Lincoln neighborhood?

It suddenly disappeared three weeks ago.

The taco truck — which I’ve deemed the best truck in Tacoma more than once — had been operating in a gravel lot at the corner of South 38th Street and South G Street since 1998, and since 2009 with its current owner.

There were always two things you needed to know about visiting it:

Never drive through the lot unless you like unintentionally four-by-fouring (the lot’s riddled with potholes).

And if you order anything, make it with carnitas.

About three weeks ago, owner Jaime Beltran said, the truck had to exit its longtime home to make way for construction (he didn’t know what was being built, and neither do I).

He moved the truck a block away, on the same side of the street, at South 38th Street and Tacoma Avenue South. It sits right in front of a Boost Mobile store.

The covered seating migrated with the truck, with two picnic tables and a few single chairs, but gone is the spacious parking area. There’s street parking off Tacoma Avenue South, but when it’s busiest, you’ll walk a block or two.

Beltran these days is busy with his new seafood restaurant, La Perla del Mar, which is just a few blocks away on Pacific. Beltran is the lead chef at the restaurant focused on seafood-based Mexican dishes.

His brother has taken over grill duties at La Fondita. The menu changed about a year ago, said Beltran, but otherwise, everything is the same.

I stopped in for a carnitas torta and found the same high-quality sandwich — slow-and-low-cooked pork shoulder, grilled until it was crispy, tucked into a soft bun dressed with a thin layer of mayonnaise, shredded lettuce, diced onions, cilantro and snappy pickled jalapenos.

If you order anything else at the truck, make it the fish tacos.

Taqueria La Fondita

Where: 3739 Tacoma Ave. S., Tacoma; 253-472-2577.

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