Dumplings, crab sandwiches, Hawaiian pork: What to eat and drink at T-Mobile Park

We left Tacoma around 3:30 p.m., making good time with little traffic en route to T-Mobile Park. The skies looked promising, but it seemed likely that my first Seattle Mariners game would occur under the retractable roof.

I had a mini reporter’s notebook in the pocket of my fanny pack — yes, I took a fanny pack, because the bag rules scared me off from bringing a regular purse, and why would I own a clear tote bag? In it I had scribbled a few names and sections of the dishes I most hoped to try.

Of course the ballgame mattered, this the follow-up to the rousing home opener, in which the Mariners outplayed the Astros 11-1. ‘Twas not the case today, as Game No. 2 ended up being the shortest ballgame I’ve ever attended.

Thankfully my partner obliged in tagging along to help consume more food than anyone requires in a four-hour period.

4:30 p.m.

We parked downtown (which feels counterintuitive to the purpose of public transit) and took the light rail to Stadium Station, following the crowd down the street and up the ramp, then down the stairs again, entering through the first available gate. The rain began its inevitable drizzle; like any sensible Pacific Northwesterner, we had layered up with Patagonias and pullovers; rain jacket hoods were pulled over heads. Does this team have weather delays? I wondered.

5:15 p.m.

Clearly we weren’t the only ones arriving early. The ‘Pen, I was told by my colleague and Seattle sports guru Gregg Bell, was where the youths hung out, and by that I think he means anyone under age 55. The beer line was insane — it must’ve been 50 people deep. I see the appeal of this area, though, with that personal peek into the bullpen and a sweeping view of the prim green grass and rejuvenated clay. But that line was long. I would get your first beer elsewhere and then get in line here!

We continued instead to Edgar’s, on the edge of The ‘Pen. Abutting the right foul pole, it, too, was packed with fans — or were they there for the $6 beers? Edgar’s staff will deliver tacos and nachos to you if you can snag space in the Cantina.

Caught in the moment, I forgot David Chang’s Fuku, new in 2022, was also in The ‘Pen. Later in the game, I contemplated returning, but it was a hike from our upper-deck seats in left field and like I said: lines. I also suggested visiting the new Chateau Ste. Michelle wine bar near Section 126 but that idea was nixed for more attainable local brews.

Half-full beers in hand, we re-entered the concourse to launch the edible portion of this adventure, strolling to Section 187.

5:38 p.m.

We split up, with my partner waiting in the maybe 12-deep line for Ethan Stowell’s Dungeness crab sandwich at Way Back Crab Shack. I took my time backtracking to Section 132.

At this epic stadium food court, you can warm up with a freshly-brewed latte, dig into a bowl of ahi tuna from Catch by Just Poké or an acai bowl with strawberries and Nutella from Pure Acai. At The Natural, vegan sausages sizzled in grease that resembled the real thing.

I didn’t come to the ballpark for a banana though. I was here for the dumplings.

Apparently I was also here to spend most of the game waiting in line, along with what seemed like half of fans in attendance. Unlike the sell-out home opener, plenty of seats remained for the second game. I can’t imagine what the lines are like with 47,943 tickets sold.

5:58 p.m.

Stopping at the top of the stairs to catch the choir singing tonight’s National Anthem, I finally reached Din Tai Fung, the long line of folks unphased that the game was about to begin. It snaked around the corner and past the bathrooms. “Is this the dumpling line?” a fellow seeker asked. She was visiting from Oklahoma and, conversing with a Seattlite next to us, commented on the traditionalism of stadium concessions in most of America.

About 20 minutes later, I paid and accepted a branded bag packed with a tub of pork wontons, a side of spicy chili oil teeming with fresh scallions, and two steamed buns. I opted for the veggie version, of mushrooms, spinach and glass noodles.

Trudging up the stairs to Section 341, a tired guy posited that they should have taken the elevator.

At the top, I breathed for a few minutes in the fresh air, embracing the stellar view of downtown Seattle and of the port as the sun slipped behind the Olympics. Then I realized the upper deck of T-Mobile Park was not like the main level — least not from a food perspective. Here it’s hot dogs and hamburgers, with the requisite condiment station of Heinz ketchup, bright yellow mustard and neon-green relish. A metal container of sauerkraut, lid askew, held two long-handled plastic spoons.

6:35 p.m.

Settling into my seat for the first time, we tore open the sleeve of chopsticks and got to work. My partner had already eaten half of the now-tepid crab sandwich. Aside from the sogginess caused by wet, tasteless tomatoes, it’s a fun if expensive choice. With a fair mass of crustacean, I could see it being split between mildly hungry father and son.

On to Din Tai Fung, the star of my day.

I was impressed by the chili oil and thrilled at the idea of eating dumplings at a baseball game. At least three people inquired of their origin. “They just smell so good,” said the couple next to us. Another lady asked me very specifically what was inside. Luckily for her, I pay attention.

7:20 p.m.

Julio Rodriguez makes that sweet catch in the outfield off a big hit by Astros’ Michael Brantley in the top of the fifth.

7:36 p.m.

We head back to the concourse to continue the mission. From a very unscientific survey of food in hand on both levels, I’d estimate that the most popular vendor at T-Mobile Park is Ivar’s Seafood. The line upstairs was still long as the game rushed through the sixth.

I know Grounders’ garlic fries are a mainstay, having tried the rendition at Cheney Stadium during a Tacoma Rainiers game last summer. After enjoying Li’l Woody’s burger at Climate Pledge Arena last year, I would generally recommend their burger, available in The ‘Pen and Section 218.

Distracted by the sunset, we admired the city-mountain-seascape for a few minutes before trailing downstairs for our third meal.

7:55 p.m.

Spotting Marination, a new station from the owners of Marination Ma Kai and Super Six, I entered the brief line in hopes of a spam musubi. Sold out, I chose the Aloha Slider for the same price, which candidly is a bargain because in reality it’s a full-sized Kalua pork sandwich with coleslaw in between a King’s Hawaiian-type bun. The huli huli chicken plate looked sizable for a few dollars more, packed with slaw and macaroni salad.

8:10 p.m.

Despite the diversity of foodstuffs at T-Mobile Park, my partner really just wanted a hot dog. I couldn’t convince him to get the $3 value dog, a new initiative that also includes refillable Coca-Cola fountain drinks, Red Vines, peanuts and nachos with surprisingly decent-looking cheese. “No, I’m getting the Mariner Dog,” he insisted, adding that a dog should be included with your entry ticket.

As one does, we used the top of a trash can as a table.

Dressed simply with mustard and relish, he concluded, “It’s good — it’s a ballpark hot dog.”

At the top of the ninth, with the Mariners down 4-0, the exodus commenced. We stayed until the last strike, then beelined to the exit behind us, Din Tai Fung bag with leftovers in tow. I felt less silly about my inability to waste food when I saw a man carrying out a Ballard Pizza box (located in The ‘Pen).

8:45 p.m.

Incidentally we didn’t zip to the light rail but to Hooverville, a funky, low-key hangout less than a five-minute walk south of the home-plate gate. We found seats at the back bar, warned of the impending flock.

Hooverville serves pizza, cooked in a toaster oven. Soon at least 15 pies had been ordered according to the very busy bartender, who told one hungry patron the wait had surpassed 45 minutes.

Word to the wise: Eat at the ballpark.

WHAT TO EAT AT T-MOBILE PARK

▪ Marination, Section 119: Kalua pork sandwich, $9

▪ Din Tai Fung, Section 132: spicy pork wontons, 8 for $12; two steamed buns, $9 for 2

▪ Way Back Crab Shack, Section 187: toasted Dungeness crab sandwich, $22

▪ Li’l Woody’s, Section 218: burger with bacon and cheddar, $12

▪ Rolling Roof, Big League Burger, High Cheese Pizza, throughout the park: Mariner Dog, $8; value hot dog, $3

▪ For a full list, visit mlb.com/mariners/ballpark/top-eats.

This story was originally published April 21, 2022 at 5:00 AM.