TNT Diner

Tacoma’s Brewers Row opens with taqueria-style eats and 24 taps

Peter Levy, of Chow Foods, purchased this building on North 26th near the Proctor neighborhood in 2015 and a year later, turned it into two restaurants. The most recent opening is Brewers Row, located on the left side of the building. Sibling restaurant Cooks Tavern opened in June.
Peter Levy, of Chow Foods, purchased this building on North 26th near the Proctor neighborhood in 2015 and a year later, turned it into two restaurants. The most recent opening is Brewers Row, located on the left side of the building. Sibling restaurant Cooks Tavern opened in June. skidd@thenewstribune.com

Brewers Row, the beer-centric sister restaurant to Cooks Tavern, opened Tuesday with a taqueria-themed menu and 24 taps.

The casual cafe is the quick-service dining companion to neighboring Cooks Tavern, a full-service restaurant with table service and lengthier menu that opened in June near the Proctor neighborhood. At Brewers Row, ordering takes place at the counter and diners find their own seats.

Both restaurants come from Peter Levy of Chow Foods, a restaurant group that operates a number of Seattle destinations including the 5 Spot and Endolyne Joe’s.

The restaurant will serve through three meal periods with a cafe menu beginning at 7 a.m. daily.

The opening menu focuses on portable Mexican fare starting with breakfast tacos and taquitos ($4.25-$8.50) and includes the gamut of quick taqueria-style eats. There’s a choice of eight burritos ($6-$8.75), the option of tacos by the plate or platter ($8.75/$10.50), four kinds of tortas sandwiches ($7.50-$9), five styles of salad bowls built in crispy flour tortilla shells ($8.25-$9), four quesadillas ($7.25-$8) and two styles of nachos, one with pork al pastor ($13.50) and another with chile verde roasted chicken ($11).

Chicken tortilla soup will be served by the cup ($3.50) or bowl ($5) and an interesting sounding “ched-jalapeno biscuit” comes with the option of four different fillings ($5-$5.75), each with egg and cheese.

Many of the above come with pre-set options for fillings, which range from chicken to beef to interesting-sounding vegetarian options.

Two pork selections are made with pork shoulder from Salmon Creek farms. The al pastor version is marinated with an achiote-chipotle pineapple marinade, and carnitas made with a guajillo-tecate braise.

Chicken — from Mount Vernon’s Draper Valley Farms — is cilantro-lime marinated. House-made chorizo comes with the trifecta of peppers — serrano, poblano and jalapenos. Carne asada is made from beef raised at St. Helens Beef.

The fish selection is grilled Pacific rockfish with ancho chile and cumin. Veg-friendly choices include roasted sweet potatoes (listed as papas dulce on the menu) with Fresno chiles and kale and ancho-citrus braised jackfruit (yaka).

What pairs well with Mexican eats? Well, beer, duh. The selection is broader than that of neighboring Cooks Tavern. Brewers Row is fitted with taps for 24 brews (including kombucha and cold-brewed coffee), plus a selection of more than 65 beers by the can or bottle.

Coffee service will be offered, with a full espresso menu. In keeping with the Mexican theme, there’s a horchata latte and Mexican hot chocolate.

Brewers Row

Where: 3205 N. 26th St., Tacoma; 253-327-1757 or facebook.com/brewersrowtacoma.

Hours: 7 a.m.-10 p.m. Sundays-Thursdays; 7 a.m.-11 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays.

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