Dirty Oscar’s Annex takes its homemade tots to a new Pierce County town

Sister to the Tacoma restaurant that once appeared on “Diners Drive-Ins and Dives,” Mini Oscar’s Annex offers a family friendly spot to indulge in handmade cheesy tots, fried chicken and waffles, biscuits and benedicts.

Kwan Yee, owner of the original Dirty Oscar’s Annex on Sixth Avenue in Central Tacoma, opened an offshoot of the modern comfort-food concept last year in downtown Sumner, steps from the Sound Transit train station.

Originally, it was billed as a coffee shop that would serve “Dirty Oscar’s-inspired fare,” while expanding into catering. The pandemic altered that plan.

Instead, Mini — as the team affectionately calls it — has mostly shared menus with DOA, but chef Sean “Panda” Firth now has leeway to develop a fresh identity in Sumner.

“We do want each place to have its own identity,” Firth said. “DOA is more of a hangover place, I would say, where you just get bunches and bunches of food, where here is more of a quieter, lighter side.”

The menu has featured many of the dishes that have helped DOA — which opened in 2010 and appeared on “Diners Drive-Ins and Dives” the following year — maintain its status as one of the South Sound’s most popular brunch destinations: homemade parmesan tater tots, plates of candied bacon, several styles of eggs benedict, including one with smoked pork and salsa verde, a Monte Cristo sandwiched by a bacon-studded waffle.

Firth returned in November to lead both kitchens. He first worked as a prep cook at DOA from about 2011 to 2015, progressing to executive chef of the Tacoma restaurant. After some time in a corporate gig with the Sounders, he received a call from Yee and quickly said yes to the opportunity.

“DOA is home to me,” said the chef.

That reputation has carried Mini through what was a difficult year, admitted manager Carleen Preble.

“We had no idea that our decision of merging the two locations through that time would open up so many customers in the area that already loved Dirty Oscar’s but didn’t want to travel the 14 miles,” she said, adding that delivery from Tacoma was obviously not an option for Sumner or Puyallup residents.

Mini also has a sizable built-in, dog friendly patio and a parking lot, where they were able to pitch a tent for outdoor seating through the winter COVID-19 closures.

As Washington state nears its June 30 reopening, Preble said, it can finally “grow and develop its own personality with more strength and stability.”

Whereas DOA is built as a bar and doesn’t allow minors, Mini is basically the opposite.

Formerly the Midtown Station diner, the space has been updated but simply decorated with neutral gray walls and the occasional decorative accent. A small bar with room for about six seats will soon welcome guests for the first time, but overall it feels like an all-day cafe — where a quick morning coffee blends seamlessly into a business lunch or a quiet after-work beer.

“We want the community welcomed to have a glass of wine on the patio, or have a painting party group or families enjoying a dinner,” said Preble. “We want Mini Oscar’s to stay comfortable and warm.”

Firth and his team have noticed guests are seeking smaller portions and lighter fare than the typical DOA dish. In addition to regular specials, he hopes to add pastas and seafood options, such as a salmon burger slider with smoked tomato tartar and coleslaw.

One thing that won’t change is their commitment to consistency.

“Everything made at DOA, it has to be made down here the same way ‘cause that’s why we are in business together,” said Firth.

Available at both locations, for instance, the Backyard Burger combines smoked pork and beef into a patty topped with BBQ slaw, candied bacon, roasted garlic aioli and crispy onions.

“Their food is good, and Sumner needed a place like this,” continued Firth. “Our job is to have good service and good food, and then business will come after that.”

DOA has long been known for its daily happy hour and all-day breakfast. Due to staffing challenges, Mini has been closed Mondays and Tuesdays, but should transition to seven days a week soon, especially as commuter traffic rebounds.

The Sumner kitchen will also double as the headquarters for Catering by Oscar’s, and Yee hasn’t ruled out the possibility of a third location.

MINI OSCAR’S ANNEX

▪ 813 Academy St., Sumner, 253-750-3157, oscarsannex.com

▪ Wednesday-Thursday noon to 8 p.m., Friday noon to 9 p.m., Saturday 8 a.m.-9 p.m., Sunday 8 a.m.-7 p.m. (breakfast menu served until 2 p.m. on weekends)

▪ Details: modern comfort food with a full bar; pet-friendly patio, and free meals for kids under 5

This story was originally published June 16, 2021 at 5:05 AM.