Culichitown bringing Sinaloan sushi, coastal Mexican food and live music to Tacoma
A Mexican franchise known for sushi rolls inspired by the coastal Mexican state of Sinaloa and daily live banda music will open a Tacoma restaurant in July at 6812 Tacoma Mall Blvd.
Culichitown focuses on seafood, including spicy aguachile and ceviche, shrimp empanadas and tacos, and sushi rolls.
Situated on the northern Pacific coast, Sinaloan cuisine bears influence from Baja across the way and Nayarit to the south, Chihuahua and Guerrero to the east. The regional style has blossomed in Southern California — so much so that Eater L.A. recently compiled a list of 17 places, including the local Culichitown, to try it. The closest regional example is probably Sushinola in Kent. In Tacoma, fans of Tacos y Mariscos Nayarit, Vuelve a la Vida and La Perla del Mar will likely find similarities, minus the sushi.
That part of the Culichitown menu starts with “breaded and fried” rolls ($15-$19), such as the Cielo Mar y Terra with shrimp, beef, chicken, cream cheese and avocado. An original dish, it remains one of the most popular, according to Carlos Caro, who owns the Tacoma restaurant with his father Felipe Alvarez and business partner Jaime Vallejo.
Others further their Mexican influence, as in the Quesito with shrimp, beef, mozzarella and jalapeno, or the Guerrero, a fully breaded version with cilantro and chipotle sauce.
The namesake roll — akin to modern American Japanese rolls — features crab, cream cheese and avocado topped with spicy crab and eel sauce.
Chef Misael Guerrero in 2011 opened the first Culichitown in Rialto, after gaining local fame selling seafood and sushi from his home in neighboring Fontana. Rooted in his hometown of Culiacán, the concept took off, recalled Caro, Guerrero’s cousin.
“It was a small location,” he said, “and every day, every weekend, it had a long line outside.”
They soon took over the space next door, knocking down the wall, and opened a second restaurant in Bell.
There are now 14 Culichitowns in California and one each in Houston, Phoenix, Las Vegas and outside Chicago — plus 10 restaurants in progress in seven states. Guerrero also recently launched another concept, Mamá Por Dios, and a few years ago started The Upholstery Co., which provides all of his and other restaurants with furniture.
In seeking opportunities for expansion, the team landed on Tacoma as an ideal location considering geography and demographics, especially a growing Latino population, explained Caro. His dad and Guerrero visited the area and found the restaurant space near the mall, formerly a Hooter’s.
The corporate training team will visit soon to train new staff ahead of a hopeful opening in early July.
MARISCOS, MARGARITAS AND MORE
Many of the “cold bar” options are named after cities in Sinaloa.
In the Altata, shrimp cooked in lime juice joins mango and cucumber. The Hulk offers a verde option, and you can even try one with Hot Cheetos instead of standard tostadas. Family-style platters range from starter aguachiles with prawns, scallops, shrimp or octopus ($24.50-$34.50) to charolas (trays) that, starting at $90, should feed a crowd.
“It’s not just Mexican based, but Sinaloa style,” said Caro, adding that while cold seafood is a specialty, hot dishes have also proven popular in the years since the first restaurant opened in 2011.
The restaurant serves an array of tacos, from fried fish or shrimp with cabbage and pico de gallo to a marlin quesadilla. Caro noted the tacos de arrachera ($5), skirt steak folded into a corn tortilla with avocado and chipotle sauce that’s seared with oil and cheese, lending a slight crunch to the exterior.
Draft beers will include the house Culichi brand, with several Mexican imports and micheladas available. A sizable cocktail menu ($10-$14) features sangria, mojito, palomas and 10 margaritas — shaken with avocado, jamaica (hibiscus), pomegranate, tamarind, watermelon.
“People just come for the whole experience,” continued Caro.
He and his father also operate the Culichi Town in Las Vegas. Their Sinaloa band will take turns performing at the Tacoma restaurant, also the first in the company to open with a new, more modern design.
“There is music playing every day of the week,” he said, starting around 6 p.m. on weekdays and earlier on weekend nights. “People love to just listen, watch, ask for their favorite songs, even dance.”
The atmosphere aims to be both family-friendly and festive, but televisions offer a chance to catch the game, too.
Culichitown Tacoma
▪ 6812 Tacoma Mall Blvd., no phone yet, culichitown.com
▪ Details: Sinaloan-style Mexican restaurant, targeting early July opening for full capacity dining (indoor and patio seating) plus takeout
▪ Follow on Facebook and Instagram @culichitown_tacoma for updates
This story was originally published June 8, 2021 at 5:00 AM.