TNT Diner

New restaurants: Colombian arepas, Roman-inspired pizzas, hot chicken and a cozy pub

The year is off to a rocky start, with what feels like every other restaurant affected by virus exposure. Yet the industry continues to prove its resilience, and planned openings have progressed at a rapid clip.

In Eatonville, a cidery run by two families has expanded from selling their wares around town to a full-fledged taproom and restaurant in a bucolic woodland setting.

Lakewood welcomed the renovated return of a longtime haunt. Meanwhile, in Tacoma, the Museum of Glass introduced its partnership with an esteemed establishment, an anticipated specialty spirits shop launched in time for the holidays and the Lincoln District has another choice for Vietnamese.

All of this arrives off the Fall 2021 additions of MyungIn Dumplings and Mother Fern Brewing, as well as a second 3uilt, Anchor House Coffee Roasters, and Stanford’s, plus Bar Rosa and Field Bar, two of TNT Diner’s best new restaurants.

Here’s a look at fresh spots to eat and drink in the new year.

Mill Haus Cider Co. has been making cider in Eatonville for several years, but the family-owned business opened their first taproom in December 2021. It already features great indoor and outdoor seating, but they anticipate adding a full-service restaurant and distillery production space.
Mill Haus Cider Co. has been making cider in Eatonville for several years, but the family-owned business opened their first taproom in December 2021. It already features great indoor and outdoor seating, but they anticipate adding a full-service restaurant and distillery production space. Courtesy Mill Haus Cider Co.

MILL HAUS CIDER CO.

303 Center St. E., Eatonville, 253-487-7065, drinkmillhaus.com

Following several years of selling cider to nearby bars, Mill Haus Cider opened the first phase of its vast production and taproom site in December, boasting a stage for live music and ample outdoor seating with a fire pit, a pond and cornhole. Father-and-son owners Steve and Caleb Schmidt joined forces with brothers Nick and Justin Baublits on the project, which will later entail a distillery and soon a larger restaurant. For now, you can dig into pork belly burnt end sliders, flatbreads and street tacos from chef George Moore while sipping house ciders, indoors or out. Open at 4 p.m. Wednesday-Friday and noon Saturday-Sunday.

McCallum & Sons Whisky, a boutique spirits store in downtown Tacoma, Washington, opened in December 2021 at 1115 A St.
McCallum & Sons Whisky, a boutique spirits store in downtown Tacoma, Washington, opened in December 2021 at 1115 A St. Kristine Sherred ksherred@thenewstribune.com

MCCALLUM & SONS WHISKY CO.

1115 A St., Tacoma, mccallumandsonswhisky.com

Glen and Maxine McCallum set out to build a spirits destination unlike any other, and their beautiful downtown Tacoma store delivers. It opened mid-December for holiday shopping, with a floor-to-ceiling library of hundreds of bottles in varied price points of Scotch, bourbon, rye and more whiskies from around the world. The selection also features brandy, rum and gin. With unrivaled passion for the product, expect concierge service and join the anticipation for the adjacent lounge, which the owners will continue to design and renovate as the retail business grows. Open Tuesday-Sunday at 11 a.m.

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Pappardelle pork ragu (left), a fennel sausage pizza with pickled peppers, and the roasted mushroom ragu with spicy rigatoni at the new Incalmo restaurant inside the Museum of Glass in downtown Tacoma, Washington, on Wednesday, Dec. 22, 2021.
Pappardelle pork ragu (left), a fennel sausage pizza with pickled peppers, and the roasted mushroom ragu with spicy rigatoni at the new Incalmo restaurant inside the Museum of Glass in downtown Tacoma, Washington, on Wednesday, Dec. 22, 2021. Tony Overman toverman@theolympian.com

INCALMO TACOMA

1801 Dock St., Tacoma, 253-284-4750, thetabletacoma.com/incalmo

The team behind The Table, open since 2015 on Tacoma’s Sixth Avenue, introduced an Italian restaurant inside the Museum of Glass just before Christmas. Chef Stephen Gangl worked with owner Derek Bray on a menu of homemade pastas, Roman-style pizzas, sandwiches and salads using the same high-quality, local and seasonal ingredients as their first location. “Even through the pandemic, you have this little flicker of a dream if the right space became available,” said Bray in December. Currently open during museum hours, Wednesday-Sunday 10 a.m.-5 p.m., dinner will begin soon, paired with wine and beer from sommelier and co-owner Trevor Hamilton.

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LITTLE RADIO

728 Pacific Ave., Tacoma, 253-327-1436, littleradiotacoma.com

This casual bar and restaurant offered downtown Tacoma a cool hangout when it opened in 2020, but the pandemic took a toll. Sister business Wingman Brewers has since closed, but Paul Jackson and Michael Hellborn have returned with a revamped Little Radio. The tight menu focuses on individual items at reasonable prices — a $6 single-patty smashburger, an $8 hot chicken sandwich, a generous $5 basket of crispy golden fries — with local beer and cocktails from manager Jen Mahoney. The front room is as chill as before, but the back has been updated with more seating and feels well-equipped for large groups and private events. Open Tuesday-Sunday at 4 p.m.

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LUNAR’S PHO

757 S. 38th St., Tacoma, 253-472-6153, lunarspho.com

Formerly home to Anna Pho, this new Vietnamese restaurant opened late last year in the Lincoln District. The menu offers staples, including a variety of rolls, fish-sauce chicken wings, vermicelli bowls, rice plates and fried rice. In addition to pho, try the deep-red bun bo hue, a Central Vietnamese specialty, and the house favorite honey walnut shrimp — fried then tossed in a tangy, creamy sauce. Neighbor Bambu Tacoma, which posts about neighboring businesses every Monday, touted the banana cake with coconut cream. Catering is available with a half-price deposit three days in advance. Open Wednesday-Monday 10 a.m.-8 p.m. (closed Tuesdays).

CRISP GREENS

3602 6th Ave., Tacoma, 253-301-3807, crispgreens.co

Corie Cameron and her husband Sean Guay opened Crisp Greens in a small storefront next to Beer Star Tacoma in 2019. When the pandemic hit, their meal-prep and grab-and-go model paid dividends, and their online ordering system allowed people to donate thousands of meals to health care workers. In May 2020, they signed a lease for a downtown store at 1916 Pacific Ave., and late last year moved into a larger Sixth Avenue storefront — and arguably much better location with more foot traffic — at Union Avenue across the street from Farrelli’s Pizza. As a nutritionist, Cameron harnesses the power of whole foods for house salads, with customizable options, and homemade soups. Open daily 10 a.m.-7 p.m., and look for the downtown addition later this year.

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EL PARCHE COLOMBIANO

6324 E McKinley Ave., Tacoma, 253-507-8517, elparchecolombiano.com

Following their original North Seattle restaurant, Mario Medina and Maria Prieto opened El Parche Tacoma on the Eastside in late 2021. Find empanadas similar to South Tacoma’s Luis Panes, but the broader menu here includes Colombian meat platters — churrasco, arroz con pollo, lengua guisada — as well as soups and salads. They also have a liquor license, and until 3 p.m., a proper breakfast of grilled steak, eggs, arepas, rice and beans. Open Wednesday-Sunday 11 a.m.-10 p.m.

The Lake City Pub in Lakewood, Washington, reopened in December after a long hiatus. The updated bar and restaurant offers a laid-back neighborhood vibe as well-suited to an after-work drink as it is to a full dinner date.
The Lake City Pub in Lakewood, Washington, reopened in December after a long hiatus. The updated bar and restaurant offers a laid-back neighborhood vibe as well-suited to an after-work drink as it is to a full dinner date. Kristine Sherred ksherred@thenewstribune.com

THE LAKE CITY PUB

9106 Veterans Dr. SW, Lakewood, 253-267-1309, facebook.com/TheLakeCityPub

This Lakewood bar is not new, but it was closed for the better part of two years. Owner Lauren Lively has overhauled the experience, upgrading the roomy bar into a “new and improved sexy dive.” It’s warm and welcoming inside, with a menu of pub favorites done-up, including the Big Meaty Spiedie, an upstate New York sandwich of grilled herb chicken with a garlic yogurt sauce, served with delightful “mini jo-jos” squeezed with fresh lemon juice. Non-handheld entrees range from pork chops to bangers and mash. Local beer, house cocktails, friendly service and two outdoor areas equipped with heaters make Lake City the kind of pub we all wish was within walking distance. Open daily at 11 a.m.

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This story was originally published January 16, 2022 at 10:00 AM.

KS
Kristine Sherred
The News Tribune
Kristine Sherred joined The News Tribune in 2019, following a decade in Chicago where she worked for restaurants, a liquor wholesaler, a culinary bookstore and a prominent food journalist. In addition to her SPJ-recognized series on Tacoma’s grease-trap policies, her work centers the people behind the counter and showcases the impact of small business on community. She previously reported for Industry Dive and William Reed. Find her on Instagram @kcsherred. Support my work with a digital subscription
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