Tacoma finally has a destination for xiao long bao. It’s sleek and already busy

Tacoma has been supercharged by the arrival of the city’s first dedicated destination for xiao long bao, and of all places, it’s at the mall.

Supreme Dumplings opened June 8, following the spring debut of another highly anticipated addition, Happy Lamb Hot Pot. The development — a now-standing monument to the mall’s reinvention several years in the making — also has gained major names including Shake Shack, Dave’s Hot Chicken, Jollibee and Kura Revolving Sushi. The burst of interest can arguably be traced back to 2019 when Kizuki Ramen & Izakaya co-founder Brandon Ting “took a leap of faith” on Tacoma Mall.

Kizuki began in Bellevue in 2012 and has 16 locations in several states. When Tacoma Mall approached him with The Village idea, he already had proof that the city and this particular shopping center was worthy of investment. Sitting in the VIP party room at his sleek new Supreme Dumplings, his second restaurant concept, he told The News Tribune that the location is his largest yet by square footage, seating more than 140 people and expected to pinch thousands of golf-ball-sized xiao long bao a day.

With soaring ceilings and unique stone walls, sea-gray banquettes, pops of gold and marble-inspired patterns, custom touches of ceramic flower sconces and other artwork — much of it from Taiwanese makers — the restaurant appears to be an early sensation.

To a diverse and steady crowd of diners Thursday afternoon, staff equipped with headsets delivered steaming bamboo baskets, plates of tan tan noodles and perfectly molded mounds of fried rice onto tables — almost all of them in view of the glass-walled kitchen, where cooks fluttered between wok stations. In another glass-walled nook that all guests will pass en route to the dining room, pause for a moment to watch some of the dumplings formed by hand: the dough rolled with a wooden pin, filled with collagen-laced pork, and methodically pinched closed.

The classic pork xiao long bao ($14 for an order of eight) are by far the most popular item at Supreme Dumplings, said George Liu, head of marketing for both of Ting’s ventures. Order them also in the spicy Szechuan style, which provide just enough tingle, or with shrimp. The wagyu beef, new to the menu, boasts a little gold-leaf atop the twirl. Pour a bit of Chinese vinegar over the provided julienned ginger and gently dip before consuming the little gem whole, preferably, or if you feel so emboldened, nibbling off a tiny hole from which to reach the broth first, then pop the rest.

The colorful assortment basket offers black truffle (the dough dyed naturally with squid ink), chicken (bright yellow thanks to turmeric) and crab with pork (a soft orange hue, compliments of pumpkin). You can even end the meal with xiao long bao for dessert — like a surprise of melted white chocolate and matcha or soft, sweet taro hidden inside the wrapper.

The key to xiao long bao, believed to have originated in Shanghai in the 19th century, lies in the wrapper, which must be very thin but with a just-thick-enough center to hold the weight of the filling. Each pocket at Supreme Dumplings total 28 grams, with just 7 grams of dough, 11 grams of soup and 10 grams of other filling.

“In this business, the thinner the skin, the better,” said Ting.

Supreme Dumplings expands in WA

The entrepreneur, 44, started Supreme Dumplings in 2022 after a decade of developing Kizuki, which he launched after graduating from the University of Washington’s Foster School of Business and learning English at Bellevue College. Five years prior, in 2007, he and a friend co-created what became Asian Family Market, although he is no longer involved in that company.

“It took five years to stabilize that supermarket,” he said. “How many more five years do I have left? I get more satisfaction in restaurants.”

As with Kizuki, formed because he couldn’t find a reliable source for the ramen he remembered in Japan and elsewhere in Central Asia, Supreme Dumplings centers on a specific food. Xiao long bao have become one of Taipei’s most prolific exports thanks in no small part to Din Tai Fung, established 1958 and now an international chain with two dozen North America locations, including four in the Seattle area. There is no such presence in Pierce County, though, and Supreme Dumplings has — for now at least — filled a void.

“Right now xiao long bao is one of the hottest trend cuisines in the U.S.,” said Ting, and the interest in them seems to know no ethnographic boundaries. A decade ago, such a singular dumpling restaurant would cater overwhelmingly to Asian customers. Now, he continued, “It’s completely mixed.”

He has purposely chosen shopping centers like Tacoma Mall and others expected to open soon at Alderwood Mall in Lynnwood, Redmond Towne Center and Northgate Station in Seattle to “make it more accessible” but not cookie-cutter — each has its own design, he said.

What to order at Supreme Dumplings in Tacoma

The menu at Supreme Dumplings in Tacoma is not that long, but everything is under $22 and most dishes, including dumplings, run around $14-$16.

“If you have too many things on the menu, you can’t concentrate,” posited Ting.

In addition to the main event, he highlighted the fried rice with a whole fried pork chop ($17.50), sliced and served atop the mound; the vegetarian mushroom fried rice ($16.50), dotted with little egg-white pearls and scallions; the signature, peanut-heavy tan tan noodles ($13); and stir-fried greens ($15.50) of string beans and broccolini.

Other plates include a flaky pocket stuffed with braised beef or pork with julienned cucumber and peppers, wonton noodle soup and honey-walnut shrimp.

For now, sip on refreshing drinks like a yuzu green tea and fun fruit slushies — a liquor license is pending.

Supreme Dumplings - Tacoma

• The Village at Tacoma Mall, 4502 S. Steele St., Tacoma, supreme-dumplings.com
• Sunday-Thursday 11 a.m.-9 p.m., Friday-Saturday 11 a.m.-10 p.m.
• Details: new, family-friendly destination for xiao long bao, plus other Chinese and Taiwanese-inspired dishes; most dishes $8.50-$15
• Reservations recommended for dinner in early days, reserve online via Yelp; call for pickup or order online at order.incentivio.com/c/supremedumpling (delivery via DoorDash & Uber Eats coming soon)