Your neighborhood-by-neighborhood guide to grabbing food to go.
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Bob’s Bar-B-Q. Fish House Cafe. A nationally-televised soul food spot. Vegan comfort from a renowned plant-based food family. The area’s only Ezell’s.
A restaurant dedicated to lumpia. Cheesesteaks. Wood-fired coffee.
The Hilltop needs no introduction.
Hang tight, though, for logistical purposes.
The city defines the Hilltop’s borders on the north and east at Division and Yakima, and on the south and west around 25th and Sprague. For the purposes of this neighborhood guide, we have loosened them slightly.
Adding in the no-man’s land of Center Street above the highway, we receive the gift of Northwest Lumpia, a true gem, owned by a husband-and-wife, a Filipino American and veteran-owned venture.
In the tip-top of the northwest corner sits It’s Greek to Me and Southern Kitchen, two very different places that reside, side-by-side, across from Jason Lee Middle School and on the other side a Walgreens, Starbucks, KFC and A&W — here marks our cutoff for Sixth Avenue restaurants, which will star in a future edition.
In fact, Hilltop borders several dense culinary neighborhoods that will receive recognition in future guides. Along Wright Park, we have pulled places like Hob Nob and Frisko Freeze into that camp.
This guide starts on the southern end, near the highway, and works its way north along and around Martin Luther King Jr. Way, the neighborhood’s essential thoroughfare, with a few stops down the hill on Fawcett and Tacoma Avenue.
As with previous editions (West End, North End, South Tacoma, Dome and Museum), no corporate chains and no third-party delivery. It is always best to order directly from the restaurant.
In addition to a few bottled cocktail options, this guide also highlights one of Tacoma’s oldest food businesses, the 95-year-old Johnson Candy Co.
Northwest Lumpia serves just that: lumpia. In addition to core fillings, owners Charles and Rebecca Marbas usually rotate through dozens of styles. To acommodate the pandemic era, the menu is more limited but no less satisfying. Pictured here: Angel’s Original on Nov. 16, 2011. Lui Kit Wong The News Tribune Staff File
Northwest Lumpia
▪ 1607 Center St., Tacoma, 253-341-0234, nwlumpia.com
The bars covering Northwest Lumpia’s windows and doors might trick you into thinking this family-run outfit has closed, or at least that it’s never open. In normal times, Charles and Rebecca Marbas conjure dozens of lumpia, from classic beef with vegetables, chicken adobo and mojo crillo to sweet versions like brown sugared banana. Due to the pandemic, the counter-service model (and individual lumpia) has switched to a drive-through on Saturdays only. Hot lumpia packs ($12 for a pack of 12) are only available if you pre-order online, along with frozen lumpia for a delicious Filipino snack any time ($10 for a pack of 12).
Ezell’s Famous Chicken
▪ 1902 Martin Luther King Jr. Way, Tacoma, 253-572-4277, ezellschicken.com
Nearly four decades later, Ezell’s remains one of the Puget Sound’s most recognizable names in food. Breaking the chain rule for that reason — the Hilltop restaurant is the nearest to Tacoma outside of Federal Way. Whole chickens are carved into eight pieces, providing extra large wings, battered with a New Orleans spice mix and fried in pure vegetable oil. Just-chicken choices range from two pieces to 24 ($5.89-$49.99, plus rolls), while combos ($8.99-$56.99) include anywhere from two regular sides to two jumbos. Look beyond the usual and try some fried gizzards or chicken livers ($6.99 for a half-pound). Note that fries and dipping sauces cost extra.
▪ Best for: fried seafood favorites, plus cheesesteaks
“Locally renowned and family-owned,” the Fish House Cafe describes itself as the Tacoma icon it is. The prices have changed over the years, and the restaurant just debuted on Facebook and Instagram in September, but the crispy fish and chicken hasn’t. Fish and chips kicks off the combo meals ($6.99-$9.90), which include fries and a drink, followed by the much-adored fish sandwich and fried shrimp. Choose chicken in three forms, or a cheesesteak, too. If you prefer fried okra, hush puppies or onion rings as a side, look to the sans-drink combo section for baskets of shrimp and the fish dinner ($8.50-$9.99). A lunch-rush line out the door of the petite blue building is common, so consider a late lunch or early dinner.
Quickie Too
▪ 1324 Martin Luther King Jr. Way, Tacoma, 253-572-4549, quickietoo.com
Vegan soul food might sound like a contemporary creation, but the Howell family has been cooking such satisfying plant-based dishes since the ‘90s, right here in the Pacific Northwest. Owner Niombi Howell opened Quickie Too in 1991, the sequel to vegan sandwich shops in Seattle and predecessor to daughter Makini Howell’s acclaimed Plum Bistro. Favorites include the Crazy Jamaican Burger of jerked tofu ($14.50), “Mac & Yease” made “cheesy” with nutritional yeast ($6.50-$7.50), and the TV Dinner of fried seitan with greens, a mashed potato and a hush puppy ($17). Burgers, wraps, TLTs (tempeh subs for bacon), milkshakes made with vegan ice cream: Who said comfort food can’t be vegan?
Red Elm Cafe
▪ 1114 Martin Luther King Jr. Way, Tacoma, 253-327-1791, redelmcafe.com
Owned by three sisters, Red Elm Cafe works tirelessly to create a comfortable place for the community to gather. Obviously, times are different and they encourage curbside pickup. Using beans from Caravan Coffee, an Oregon-based roaster chosen for its responsible sourcing, the coffee menu spans from regular drip to seasonal espresso drinks ($2.25-$4.80). Have a housemade cookie, scone or brownie, or indulge in a vegan and gluten-free waffle made with hemp milk, served simply with whipped cream or savory toppings like pesto and feta ($4.50-$7). Paninis, tomato soup and a waffle-inspired corn dog round out the cafe fare.
Pho King
▪ 1020 Martin Luther King Jr. Way, Tacoma, 253-272-6287
▪ Monday-Saturday 10:30 a.m.-8 p.m.
▪ How to order: by phone or in-person
▪ Best for: inexpensive pho and Vietnamese mainstays
The interior got a facelift a couple of years ago, but takeout remains a worthy choice from this Hilltop pho spot. Warm up with a bowl for under $8, including the house special with six meats and a vegetarian version with fried tofu. A child’s portion comes with either brisket or meatballs and a drink for $4.75. For better leftovers, try a combo platter with grilled pork, cha trung hap (Vietnamese meatloaf with mushrooms and egg) and fried shrimp served with rice or noodles ($7-$7.50). On the cold side, $3 fresh spring rolls and a $3.50 banh mi will fill your stomach but not empty your wallet.
Peterson Bros.’ flagship sandwich shop in Hilltop, known as The Eleven Eleven, serves all-around stellar sandwiches, all warm. Be sure to take some beer home, too. Kristine Sherred ksherred@thenewstribune.com
The flagship destination for the Peterson Bros.’ famous sandwiches, “The Eleven Eleven” boasts plenty of classics and a solid menu of vegan options. The current takeout menu — shorter to accommodate COVID-era dining — includes favorites like the Brutus (their take on an Italian), the Reuben with homemade 1000-island dressing, the Chicken Bacon Bleu with caramelized onions and a cheesesteak on an asiago roll. Go vegan with a melt of homemade seitan meatloaf or the popular Buffalo Melt made with soy “curls” and a vegan ranch. As any sandwich shop worth its salt, all ($10.99) come wrapped with a pickle spear and a bag of chips, though you can sub a side salad for $2.50 — a chance worth taking. Add a six-pack of local brews and pretend you’re at the bar.
The eclectic menu at the Hilltop Le-Le — sister to the Tacoma Mall and Gig Harbor restaurants — starts with Vietnamese mainstays like spring rolls ($4), bánh xèo ($10.99), tamarind chicken wings ($8.99) and vermicelli salads with BBQ pork, egg rolls or prawns. Beyond pan-fried noodle favorites such as pad Thai and chad che, the “fusion” plays into dishes (most $9.99-$11.99) like a Thai green papaya salad served with Korean bulgogi ($11.99). Lettuce wraps with chicken sate, an Indonesian stir-fry and Malaysian rice noodle — with your choice of chicken, pork, tofu, beef or prawns — offer a little something different.
Manifesto Coffee roasts on-site on Tacoma’s Hilltop, selling wholesale to select shops around town. Get an espresso drink and a bag of beans for delicious cups at home. Kristine Sherred ksherred@thenewstribune.com
Manifesto’s beans haven’t yet reached critical mass in Tacoma, rendering a trip to this Hilltop roaster all the more worth your while. You’ll find their coffee at select shops including The Red Hot, Lux in McKinley, 3uilt inside 7 Seas, and Beyond ThunderDome Cafe in South Tacoma. Choose a simple espresso drink and take home a bag of any house or contracted roasts, including a “sweet and chocolatey” decaf ($16 a pound).
The Southern-inspired menu at 1022 South J in the Hilltop neighborhood of Tacoma, Wash., provides creative choices to sop up the bar’s well-crafted cocktails. You can choose fried or grilled shrimp, as picture here, in the po’boy, with an array of seasonal sides, like this blackened cauliflower. Kristine Sherred ksherred@thenewstribune.com
1022 South J
▪ 1022 S. J St., Tacoma, 253-627-8588, 1022soj.com
▪ Best for: cocktails and Southern-inspired sandwiches
You’ll miss the familial feels of conversations with a stranger, cocktails in hand, but at least you can get drinks to-go. Save a buck by ordering the double or triple servings of 1022’s Negroni, a barrel-aged old fashioned and Hilltop tonic ($17-$22). Then get thee some hush puppies and a bowl of homemade seasonal soup ($7-$8). With such care in each sandwich ($12-$14 with choice of side, including kimchi slaw, braised collards and a zippy watermelon gazpacho), choose the one that speaks to you — whether that’s a blackened shrimp po’boy, a very good fried chicken sandwich or a beet burger. The pimento bacon and bitter arugula on grilled rosemary bread exemplifies this lovely little restaurant’s approach to neighborhood cooking.
Liz Beaupid of Tacoma prepares phone-in orders for pick at Johnson Candy in Tacoma on Wednesday, April 8, 2020. Tony Overman toverman@theolympian.com
Johnson Candy Co.
▪ 924 Martin Luther King Jr. Way, Tacoma, 253-272-8504, johnsoncandyco.com
Bill Johnson, third-generation candy maker, promised at Easter that his family’s 95-year-old shop would launch an online shop “soon.” Well, it debuted in September, meaning fans near and far can easily order a pound of sea salt caramels, peanut clusters, mint wafers and assorted chocolates for pickup or shipping. Since its original 1925 iteration as a lunch counter, the Johnson family sweets have expanded to include gluten-free, sugar-free and vegan options, too. Call the shop, or visit in-person, for a broader selection.
Bob and Elizabeth Little served Tacoma delicious barbecue from 1948 until his death in 1974, but thankfully in the ‘80s the family resurrected the smoker on Hilltop. A pound of their renowned ribs, plus two sides, a cornbread muffin and slice of white bread, is a must. Mix in rib tips, smoked chicken, hot links and wings in a two- or three-meat combo dinner ($15.99-$22.99). You can also order meat on its own — starting with a quarter chicken ($6.99) up to a slab of ribs ($34.99) — and make a family meal with containers of baked beans, collards, potato salad, mac and cheese or coleslaw ($3.99 for an 8-ounce side to $6.99 for 16 ounces). Don’t forget the sweet potato pie ($3.99 per slice).
At the corner of Yakima and 11th, this little cafe serves a surprising density of sandwiches, mostly in the form of paninis. Four types of melts — tuna, patty, Cuban burger, turkey — join roast beef, fried chicken tenders and a turkey pesto, all on grilled ciabatta ($8.50-$8.95). Other cafe classics include a club, chicken salad, and BLT ($7.50-$8.95). Bagels with cream cheese ($2.50-$3) and a breakfast panini pair well with one of the shop’s many flavored espresso drinks ($3-4 for a small, up to $7.50 for a large): lattes with matcha, turmeric, caramel, macadamia nut or banana, plus a few fun frappes ($6).
Tacoma’s very camp-themed bar has outdone itself for COVID-era dining, outfitting the restaurant with translucent tents around tables. Take those camp vibes with you in the form of chicken tenders ($10.95) or chicken wings ($8), and one of five burgers and three wraps. The hefty Lumber Jack packs two patties with Mama Lil’s peppers, cheese, bacon, LTO and pickles ($12.45). Add fries or tots for $1.25, or a side salad for $2. Bring a growler to fill up on draft beer, and treat yourself to a cocktail slushie to-go.
Go Philly Cheesesteaks & Wings is set to open a new site Feb. 4 at 7421 Custer Rd W., in Lakewood. Go Philly Cheesesteaks & Wings
The namesake sandwiches ($10.95-$13.95) set the tone for Go Philly’s broad menu. Whether you stick with the original with grilled onions and your choice of gooey cheese (provolone the classic) or prefer spicy peppers, grilled mushrooms, or something crazy like teriyaki or Frank’s hot sauce, owner Jason Kinlow won’t let you down. Chicken wings ($7.50 for six jumbo wings to $24.99 for 20) also deliver here: choose among 10 sauces, including lemon pepper and garlic parmesan, or the crispy Southern fried — available here but not at the Lakewood location. An array of fried catfish, shrimp and oysters ($8.99-$15.99) in a basket or on in po’boy form, plus sides of fried okra, onion rings and hush puppies, will entice you to return oh-so-soon.
▪ Best for: locally sourced breakfast, lunch and dinner
Alma Mater has reimagined its community role during the pandemic, and in the midst of those changes closed its lounge and cafe while introducing The Patio, an outdoor-only restaurant. The morning menu features delicious house-cured lox (on a bagel, $14), a sourdough waffle with candied pecans ($11), a satisfying cheeseburger with shoestring fries ($13), and two salads — of burrata and roasted beets ($10). Drip coffee from nearby Campfire Coffee and espresso drinks from Olympia add to the local ambiance. The menu switches at 2 p.m. to savory favorites: smoked trout dip ($10), vegan croquettes ($8) and a refreshing quinoa bowl with chicken ($13). The bar also bottles its well-crafted cocktails to-go.
A bag of “Starry Night” beans at Campfire Coffee in Tacoma, Wash., on Thursday, July 23, 2020. Joshua Bessex jbessex@thenewstribune.com
Since news spread of Quincy and Whitni Henry’s outdoorsy coffee shop, Campfire Coffee has been inundated with legions of customers eager to get their hands on their wood-fired beans — and their clever Northwest-themed swag. The cafe, adorned with forest wallpaper and a vapor-steam firepit, opened in August, so now you can relish a swath of drinks, including house favorites like a s’mores latte. Follow Instagram for the latest bags o’ beans, but take heed: They sell out frequently. Best to try a hot cup while climbing back up the hill.
Despite having appeared on several nationaltelevisionshows, Southern Kitchen has never relinquished its charm. Gloria Martin and her team continue to dole out crispy fried chicken and whole catfish, cornbread stuffing, jalapeno hush puppies and bacon-fat stewed collards. No matter which protein you choose, entrees ($15.95-$21.95) come with two sides and a corncake — and will leave you full, with leftovers, beginning at the single catfish and up to the 6th Avenue Platter. Breakfast dishes take those classics and add eggs, and desserts ($5.95-7.95) — peach cobbler, bread pudding, sweet potato pie — are worthy any time of day.
It’s Greek to Me serves more than just gyros and spanakopita, though they have that, too. The incredibly cheesy pizzas are reasonably priced and very filling, with gyro meat available as a topping. Kristine Sherred ksherred@thenewstribune.com
A welcome addition to any neighborhood, this unassuming Greek restaurant inside a former car wash fills a void for falafel, gyros and souvlaki, centrally located between Central Tacoma and the Stadium District. Take your pick of fish, meat or vegetarian pita sandwiches ($7.99-$8.49), and add a Greek salad, tzatziki or hummus plate ($8.99) to cleanse the palate. Don’t overlook the house specials of moussaka, dolmades and spanakopita ($8.99-$12.99), served with satisfying garlic bread. With clam chowder, pasta and an array of very cheesy pizza on a spongy, hand-tossed crust, even the kids among us will find something to love here.
Kristine Sherred joined The News Tribune in 2019, following a decade in Chicago where she worked for restaurants, a liquor wholesaler, a culinary bookstore and a prominent food journalist. In addition to her SPJ-recognized series on Tacoma’s grease-trap policies, her work centers the people behind the counter and showcases the impact of small business on community. She previously reported for Industry Dive and William Reed. Find her on Instagram @kcsherred.Support my work with a digital subscription
